• Tag Archives Kauai
  • Not Decadent Excess, But Distancing

    Kate’s only here until Saturday and that’s coming up this weekend.  Her vacation/education has been marred by illness, but she’s filling better now, though not well.  She keeps on, dedicated to learning, just as you would hope a physician would be.  She gets up every morning here at 6:30 AM to get ready for lectures. 

    Partly due to not being on the car contract while we were on Maui and partly due here to Kate’s illness, I’ve not gotten out and done my usual, as I’ve said before, but this has allowed me to spend time considering the resort experience.

    From our lanai I can see four swimming pools, all shaped with rocks and plantings to look like lagoons.  At the edge of the Hyatt’s property near the ocean, there is a faux lagoon that has sea water pumped in from the ocean.  It’s big enough to support kayaking and other water sports.  The other pools are fresh water. 

    Early morning bring lawn mowers, hedge trimmers, garden carts and the pool man out to balance the pool.  Staff constantly set up and take down tables, place settings, stages, lights, microphones, chairs.  Around 9AM guests begin staking out pool loungers, putting down towels and wraps.  The kids begin giggling and screaming while adults walk along the sidewalks going to meetings or to the pool themselves. 

    There appear to be two very different type of guests:  one, like Kate, is here as part of a group, this week the Association of Business Managers, Chrysler, Novell, AIG, and the group of hospitalists and clinicians with whom Kate is here; the other are guests who’ve come here on their own dime for vacation.  This last is expensive since the cheapest rack rate is $625 a nights, groups get a substantial discount, vacationers don’t.

    Six different restaurants and four separate bars service all these folks.  Each night a solo singer performs on a stage set at the end of the grand entrance.  Guest listen and watch the Pacific in the background.  A jazz group plays each night in the Robert Louis Stevenson library and various Hawai’ian themed singers and dancers perform for special occasion luaus.

    If you feel so inclined, you can also have massage of several different varities as well as various body polishes, mud baths and the usual pedicures and manicures.  In case you forgot your pearls or your diamond bling there is a jewelry store.  An art gallery sells high buck kitsch.  There is a Hawai’ian quilt store, a Reyn Spooner store that sells only Hawai’ian shirts, a sandal and beachwear store, swimming wear, and a men’s and women’s clothing store.  This is all in addition to the two large sundry shops that fill the place of the ordinary hotel gift shop.

    Outside vendors come in and set up in the grand entrance:  coral jewelry, ukele’s, hand-crafted jewelry.  All the while the bell crew welcomes new visitors with a cymbidium lei and “Please, walk in through the grand entrance.” 

    Oops. Almost forgot the pro tour golf courses and the tennis courts and weight room.

    All in all it’s an amazing feat of organization and logistics.  How do they get all the supplies in for all of the restaurants?

    Having said that, a person could come here and never experience Kauai except during the drive here to and from the airport.  In that sense this is an expensive cocoon, a safe familiar environment for a certain clientele who want and expect certain services and security.   I imagine these are folks at home in gated communities and upper class neighborhoods the world over.  With all the privilege any person could hope for, they use it to insulate themselves from any kind of experience of foreign to their own.

    In the end this, and not the decadent excess (which I enjoy for a bit), is what makes these places such a disservice both to the community in  which they exist and to the clientele they serve.


  • Long Boarders Paddling in the Bay

    Kate and I went into Lihue the back way.   A remnant of a volcanic cone stood between us and the ocean. The road wound back and forth, over one lane bridges and beside small farmsteads with NO TRESPASSING signs.  Can you imagine living in a place where folks felt like they could just walk onto your land? 

    Even 15 years ago when Kate and I came here the first time there was the beginning of the ohana (family) movement.  It has blossomed and resulted recently in some big gains for indigenous Hawai’ians.  It also fuels, and is fed by, a not too subtle hostility to haoles (strangers).   The beach sign at the County Park here had several slogans, Go Home!, Give back our land! written on it.

    I feel in turns sympathetic, even empathetic, and annoyed.  Empathetic from a justice perspective, knowing how we annexed Hawai’i and how our treatment of the indigenous people here has mirrored the despicable record on the mainland.  Annoyed because I have begun to see the earth as our mutual responsiblity and therefore all land and water as inherently the domain of all.  I too can love these islands, this ocean and cannot be denied these sentiments because of my geographic origin or the color of my skin.

    Over dinner Kate and I watched long boarders paddling around in the bay (in Lihue) and paddlers pushing outrigger canoes, four of them, down the beach head and into the bay.  Our waitress said they hold competitions on the weekends from Hanalei to Lihue to Waimea, a long way. Not so long, though, when you consider it was in outrigger canoes that the first Polynesians found the Hawai’ian islands.  An amazing feat when you consider the vastness of the ocean and that there were no road signs in the water.

    Lunar eclipse hidden by clouds. 


  • Scenery and Traffic

    83.  Picked up the little Cobalt and it was hot.  Sunny.  Clear.  Prediction is kids in the pools, old folks in the jewelry stores and bars.

    Left the cosy confines of Camp Grand Hyatt for Lihue about 2PM.  This turned out to be the time everyone else on Kauai decided to go to Lihue.  My timing treated me to a traffic jam on an island with 58,000 people.  sigh.

    At Borders (the concierge told me there were no independent bookstores.  sigh again.) I bought a few gifts and picked up Alan Watts, The Watercourse Way, a book reccommended by my teacher, Jihian Hang.  Then over to Long’s, a drugstore which carries almost everything a guy could ever need plus drugs.

    Flip-flops, a mailing box, bubble wrap, People for Kate and some spray-on sun block.  Back in the car.  Again, everybody that had headed to Lihue now turned around and left along with me.  Second traffic jam.   The scenery, though, more than compensates.  Cook pines, old eroded mountains covered in green, Eucalyptus trees, an old sugar cane warehouse with rusted I-beams.  An American flag flying in the middle of a pasture on a tall pole.


  • Scenery and Traffic

    83.  Picked up the little Cobalt and it was hot.  Sunny.  Clear.  Prediction is kids in the pools, old folks in the jewelry stores and bars.

    Left the cosy confines of Camp Grand Hyatt for Lihue about 2PM.  This turned out to be the time everyone else on Kauai decided to go to Lihue.  My timing treated me to a traffic jam on an island with 58,000 people.  sigh.

    At Borders (the concierge told me there were no independent bookstores.  sigh again.) I bought a few gifts and picked up Alan Watts, The Watercourse Way, a book reccommended by my teacher, Jihian Hang.  Then over to Long’s, a drugstore which carries almost everything a guy could ever need plus drugs.

    Flip-flops, a mailing box, bubble wrap, People for Kate and some spray-on sun block.  Back in the car.  Again, everybody that had headed to Lihue now turned around and left along with me.  Second traffic jam.   The scenery, though, more than compensates.  Cook pines, old eroded mountains covered in green, Eucalyptus trees, an old sugar cane warehouse with rusted I-beams.  An American flag flying in the middle of a pasture on a tall pole.


  • Offerings to Keoniloa, God of the Sea

    Sunny.  80.  Ocean blue.  Ocean green.  Waves steady.  Low tide today at 9:28AM.

    Took a 2 hour hike along the Maha’ulepu Heritage Trail.  This is an up and down trail along the southern shore of the island.  It begins in the County Park right next to the Hyatt and heads east from Shipwrecks Beach.

    At the county park an older Hawai’ian man with a great bushy white beard got out of a beat up pick up, slung a plastic bag over his shoulder and headed out along the trail.  I followed a bit later.

    There was a blue tent pitched not far east of the parking lot, also not far from the sign that read No Camping in County Parks.  The trail goes up over a lithified dune into Pa’a Dunes (dry and rocky).  All along the way trails worn down by hikers, runners and island fisherfolk weave in and out, sometimes three, sometimes only one.  One trail finds shade, if there is any and another finds the edge nearest the ocean.  Through Pa’a I hiked the edge trail going out and the shade trail coming back.

    After the dunes come a stretch of sandstone pinnacles (think Lake T’ai rocks) eroded by wind and rain and ocean into fantastic shapes, shapes that any Chinese literati would make a home for in their study.  On a tide pool just below the sand pinnacles I saw the Hawai’ian man waking in flip-flops collecting something from the pool area just vacated by low tide.  On the way back I went out there myself and tried to figure out what he was after.  The only thing I saw were sea slugs.  Are they edible?

    The trail runs up hill from the pinnacles to a bay filled with black lava rocks covered with a green lichen.  These rocks, stacked carefully to form a huge structure, look like other Hawai’ian temples or heiau’s, but these are so old that no one, not even the Hawai’ians know its name or whether it was ever a heia’u.  It’s called the fishing temple, the assumption being that offerings to Keoniloa, god of the sea, placed here would ensure good fishing.  No one really knows.

    After crossing just behind the heia’u, the trail strikes out across another sacred landscape, the Poipu golf course, scene of many of pro golf’s most important contests.  Why?  Well, where the trail used to run near the edge people fell off as the ledge crumbled.  They died.  So, the trail now runs along the greens for about 300 yards.  There are signs to make sure hikers look for golfers and vice versa. 

    I stopped about three-quarters along the way and struck out off the trail to find Makau-wahi sinkhole (Fear, Break Through). It is a small part of the largest limestone caves found in Hawai’i. Paleoecology and archaeology have found evidence here of how the first humans affected the local biome.  This is one of only a few such sites in the world.

    The walk back, with the sun higher, became hot and somewhat onerous, so I headed back to the lanai for a rest.


  • Martinis, Sushi and Jazz

    Full moon.  Clear night sky.  70 degrees.

    Kate and I ate at Dondero’s, an Italian place.  Her illness is back on its heels with dayquil and antibiotics.  We now share most of our meals, cuts portions and expenses.  Makes the meal more intimate, too, since we have to agree on what we want.

    After dinner we went upstairs to the Robert Louis Stevenson Library which advertises itself as martinis and sushi.  It’s also a jazz bar.  An eclectic band played old favorites.  We sat out on the balcony and ate artisanal cheeses. 

    These kind of days and meals make for the memories which build and sustain our relationship.  We’re lucky to have them.


  • I Feel Like a Vampire

    Mid afternoon and I feel like a vampire, driven inside by the sun. 

    As you might have noticed, the second post I lost the server coughed up not once but twice.  Unfortunately, it really really likes it and won’t let me retire one copy.  So it will remain until I return home to a more stable cyber environment.

    Today has been slow.  Real slow.  I took a nap, read.  Got up, had a snack, read.  Then Kate came back from broiling in the sun and we talked. Now she’s taking a nap.

    The indolent side of vacation has always driven me up a wall. I like to be out exploring, experiencing, discovering.  So, just to be contrary I’m trying to see what others see in this complete snuggle offered by a huge resort complex.

    Here the main entrance has an expansive view of the Pacific and comfy chairs near the large gate like structure that opens the hotel up to the outside.  I sat in one of those and read for awhile, then wandered over to Kate beside the pool, then up to the room where I’ve been since. 


  • Liminal Zones

    This is my third try on this post.  Two have been lost due to gremlins here at the Hyatt.  Don’t ask.

    Last night.  9PM.  Night.  A nearly full moon, Orion high beside her and a quiet beach.  I’m a night beach person, alone with the convergence of land and water, an open sky above and a black lava rock for a seat. 

    Waves roll in and in and in, persistent, ceaseless.  Wearing away at the land until Kauai becomes a seamount just like the others ahead of it in the long Hawai’i archipelago.  A wonderful place for meditating about liminal zones.

    Last night Kate had a miserable time fending off what seems to be an attack of sinusitis following her cold. We drove into Koloa to see a doc and get a script for amoxycilin.  Then into Lihue to Long’s Pharmacy to get the drugs then back over here to get Kate back to her lectures.  She hates to miss anything.


  • Liminal Zones

    Sunny.  Blue.  Temp perfect.  Relaxed.

    Cyber gremlins here, as on Maui.  Not only is this connection expensive, it’s episodic and occasionally slow.  OK.  Done wit dat.

    Last night the moon was nearly full and Orion stood high in the sky with her.  The moon was bright, but in the way only the moon can be, nacreous and gentle, not harsh and brilliant like the other great light in the sky.

    A large chunk of black lava provided a seat as the ocean pounded in at high tide, wave after wave after wave.  This ceaseless, persistent character of the ocean erodes the land, our habitat to make room for more salt water.  A graphic of the sea mounts and islands in the Hawai’an chain, all the way out to Kure, some 1600 miles from Hawai’i shows them growing smaller and smaller until, after Nihau, most of the former islands are now sea mounts with nothing above the surface.

    Liminal zones have always fascinated me and the shore, where ocean and land meet is no exception.  Being a light skinned Northern European the daytime beach holds no interest for me, but the night time beach is ideal.  There I can meditate on the convergence of these two great elements, water and earth, and watch a third, the sky, at the same time.  At night there are few to no people and little heat.  A moment made for me.

    This morning we went to Koloa and took Kate to the doctor. She does not like to go to the doctor, go figure.  Anyhow the local guy agreed with her that she has a sinus infection, faxed a prescription to Long’s Pharmacy and off we went to Lihue for the drugs.  We got them and drove back to the Hyatt where I dropped Kate off for her lectures.

    Now I’m just kicked back, after getting the server to recognize me again.  Later.


  • Liminal Zones

    Sunny.  Blue.  Temp perfect.  Relaxed.

    Cyber gremlins here, as on Maui.  Not only is this connection expensive, it’s episodic and occasionally slow.  OK.  Done wit dat.

    Last night the moon was nearly full and Orion stood high in the sky with her.  The moon was bright, but in the way only the moon can be, nacreous and gentle, not harsh and brilliant like the other great light in the sky.

    A large chunk of black lava provided a seat as the ocean pounded in at high tide, wave after wave after wave.  This ceaseless, persistent character of the ocean erodes the land, our habitat to make room for more salt water.  A graphic of the sea mounts and islands in the Hawai’an chain, all the way out to Kure, some 1600 miles from Hawai’i shows them growing smaller and smaller until, after Nihau, most of the former islands are now sea mounts with nothing above the surface.

    Liminal zones have always fascinated me and the shore, where ocean and land meet is no exception.  Being a light skinned Northern European the daytime beach holds no interest for me, but the night time beach is ideal.  There I can meditate on the convergence of these two great elements, water and earth, and watch a third, the sky, at the same time.  At night there are few to no people and little heat.  A moment made for me.

    This morning we went to Koloa and took Kate to the doctor. She does not like to go to the doctor, go figure.  Anyhow the local guy agreed with her that she has a sinus infection, faxed a prescription to Long’s Pharmacy and off we went to Lihue for the drugs.  We got them and drove back to the Hyatt where I dropped Kate off for her lectures.

    Now I’m just kicked back, after getting the server to recognize me again.  Later.