• Tag Archives Kauai
  • Wahoo!

    4:35 PM.  Winds 17 mph.  Waves break on the reef and the palm fronds flutter toward the southwest.

    Slow day.  Went into Kapa’a and had lunch at the Wahoo Seafood Bar and Grill.  In fact, I had Wahoo.  Wahoo!  Not bad, but not as good as I expected from an “award winning” restaurant noted as Kauai’s best for seafood.  It has bamboo slats for wainscoting along the outside, waist high wall.  Inside its primary distinguishing feature is a well-drawn fish-hook, the Wahoo’s graphic.

    After lunch I puttered over to the Coconut Grove Market, a place I recalled from our visit ten-years ago.  Then, it must have been new because I remember it as modestly upscale, now its crowds seem to come from tour buses and cruise ships.  Many shops have closed and whoever owns the place is not wasting money on upkeep.  Shabby.

    I did buy some music there, an Island themed Taj Mahal CD and a well-known Hawaiian singer, Keali’i Reichel’s CD, Kawaipunahele.  Buy two, get one handed to you.  Volume 2 of Paradise music.  Guess folks my age are the only ones who buy CD’s anymore.  Gosh, first vinyls, now CD’s.  Can DVD’s be far behind?

    Tomorrow I plan to go Lumahi Gardens just beyond Hanalei.  Was gonna go today, but they are closed.  This is part of the National Tropical Botanical Gardens and focuses on native Hawai’ian plants, many of which are now rare, or extinct in the wild.

    Looked at the hometown weather this morning.  0 with a -10 windchill.  Kate said she had to blow 4-5 inches of compacted snow off the driveway.  A welcome home to Minnesota ritual.  She also picked up the dogs who were very happy to go home, though they had a good time at doggy camp, too.

    Trip’s not as much fun without Kate.  Realized today that living here might get old.  Either that or I’m at nadir for this trip, which I think is the case.  It happens.


  • A Beach Filled With Tiny Shells

    7o.  Sunny.  Surf seems higher today.  A breeze.  Palm fronds wave off the back lanai.

    Up early after what seemed like a restless night, though I seem refreshed, so I must have slept more than I thought.  At some point I got worried about someone breaking in since only screens separate me from the outside if I want to have any air in here.  Then I thought, why am I afraid?  Nothing has happened.  I went through several iterations with this, finally concluding that fear was a displacement of awareness of the unknown.  I know I can deal with the unknown, so that was that.  I went back to sleep.

    Ate breakfast at 6:50AM, just as dawn cracked the horizon off to the southeast.  The pale orange flavor of the dawn radiated South Pacific. Calm.  Colorful. Cyclical.

    Da Fish Shack compares to the Hyatt this way:  better, much better, internet connection; a kitchen, on the water, private, no kids screaming down the waterslide and costs about 1/8th of the Hyatt rack rate and about 1/4 of our discounted rate.  It has a flavor and a presence, light living on the land.  The Hyatt changed the land, landscaped and lit it, put buildings and restaraunts on it and tried to make them pretty.  And they did.  But.  Here the land and the ocean are beautiful without aid.  So, guess which I prefer?

    Out the door at 7:30AM to hike along a new trail developed by Kauai County.  It ran for about 600 yards then ended at dirt road which ran further than I had time to hike.  Perfect.  The road, part of the long county park, ran just above the ocean with wonderful views of beaches and ocean only 300 yards or so below. 

    Along the way I met a lithsome young lady on a mountain bike.  She had on a helmet, but road slowly.  Two men, chunky, and a boy wandered at a saunter and a dog walker with four leashed dogs and two loose passed me in the opposite direction.  Further on I saw a woman doing the yogic sun salute on a spit of sand projecting out into the bay.  Above me, up a hill stood two homes built in what looks like it will be a very exclusive development, 25 lots, all on the crest of a hill near the highway with stunning ocean views. 

    On the way back, when I go slower, I took pictures and meandered down to beach level at different points.  Near the trail head I took down from the parking lot near the highway, I dropped to a long, crescent shaped beach.  When Kate and I were ready to leave, we stopped to look at shell necklaces an aunty had for sale.  Aunty and Uncle are terms of respect for the elderly here.  A good idea.

    She had many Nihau necklaces.  “Nope.  Not for sale. I tell young people not to do what I do, buy the necklaces, then have no money.”  In essence she sold shell necklaces made in Polynesia so she could buy necklaces made on tiny Nihau.  She also told us that the very small Nihau shells sometime wash up on North Shore beaches.  The beach I went down to investigate is such a beach.  These tiny shells are there by the hundreds. I plan to spend an early morning doing nothing but collecting shells, then Kate and I can try our hand at making $2,000 necklaces.

    Had a more ambitious plan for this morning, but I’m feeling slow, so I may just stay here and read.


  • So, This Guy Trips and Falls in the Ocean

    7:12PM  Night.  Had the weird experience of seeing Oscar winners announced at 4:30PM. 

    Tripped and fell in the ocean.  Got wet. Of course.  Mumbled.  Then, ah, what would one expect when in the ocean.

    Have a burgeoning collection of coral, have found few shells here.  

    This morning on the way to Hanalei I had just passed the taro field after crossing the one-lane bridge and there in a field was a painted pony with an egret sitting happily on his back.  A few miles further on I noticed a field with horses had several egrets.  Is there something about their relationship? 

    It looked like a fable.

    The tao continues to make inroads into my thought process.  It’s almost Platonic, in that this feels like stuff I have always known.  My intuitive processes have led me here, in spite of my rational faculties which spent so many years concentrated on Christianity because I wanted to read religion in my own cultural idiom.  It didn’t occur to me that my own personal faith language may speak in a different tongue than the Judaeo-Christian.

    Here are a few things.  All things are one.  This means, in simplest terms, that things that may seem separate, light and dark, good and bad, men and women actually compose a whole when we realize each is necessary for the other to exist.  Without light, no dark.  Without women, no men.  Without bad, no good.  Those of us married to the Western logical paradigm which has the law of excluded middle, something is either this OR that, this concept may seem troubling, even scandalous.   As Alan Watts points out in Watercourse Way, our dichotomized thinking has lead to idealism which imagines that good must made bigger and bigger until there is no bad left in the world.

    As one whose path has followed that line of thought, it becomes clearer and clearer to me why Christianity surprised me with its intellectually sophisticated approach to reality.  Christianity linked up so well with my leftist politics because leftist politics are based on the linear view of time, a time that runs out and therefore seems to demand an ending; an ending which may be good or bad.  Yikes!  Better work for the good one. 

    All over Kauai there are churches with signs: Jesus Is Coming Soon.  If that’s your paradigm, that the big guy is on his way back and watch out, then you have to work on yourself and on your society to make sure that good triumphs over evil.  This is not true only of conservative Christians; it is true of liberals, too.  This thinking made me sick.

    How?  I began to see the world in black and white terms, with them over there and us over here.  Taoist thought helps me reintegrate myself, to find some of them here and some of us over there, until, gee, we all look like part of the same world.

    My first intuition of this came in high school when I wrote a bad poem, The Test.  In it I questioned the nature of a god who only gives a person 7o years plus or minus to determine how eternity will be spent.  The math didn’t work for me.  Not long after that I knew that if I could describe one flower I can describe the whole universe.  Today I discovered that Lao-Tze said, “If I sit in the house, I have the whole universe available to me.”  Hints of this way of seeing the world.  But I couldn’t put it together.

    So, I backed into it all by leaving Christianity, then becoming more and more Celtic.  When I found Unitarian-Universalism, I found Emerson.  His essay Nature demands that we find our own relationship with the gods today, rather than rely on the experience our ancestors.  Emerson and the Celtic embrace of cyclical time lead me further and further away from a progressive view of history, until it began to recede as the dominant view in my thinking.

    When I began to start art history, Chinese and Japanese art captivated me.  In studying them, I began to search in the various schools of thought that inspired the aesthetics of these two cultures.  The art that grabbed me had Taoist influences.  Song dynasty landscapes.  Chan Buddhism teaware.  Zen Buddhist prints. Chan Buddhism comes from Buddhism’s collision with Taoism in China. 

    As I do, I began to plow backwards, into Confucius and then more seriously into Taoism.  What had long attracted me finally began to occupy more and more of my thinking and, even more important, my heart.  Now I’m diving deep and it just may be I won’t come up at all this time.  At least not as the me I’ve come to know.

    Oh, well, if you read this far, it’s your own fault. I’m on a tear here, I know.


  • How To Cross a One-Lane Bridge

    1:40PM  77.  Sunny.  Hazy.  Some surf, but not, according to the ocean safety folks, much of a hazard.  The surf breaks maybe 150-200 feet from shore; it hits a coral reef.  Further in toward Kapaa there is a life-guard protected beach where there are many surfers today.  These are not the beginners I saw on Maui’s west shore.  These folks know what they’re doing.

    In fact, I started the day driving all the way to Hanalei and beyond, hunting for the Pinetree Surfboard competition, but it appears the surf didn’t meet championship standards.  Or, something, anyhow I couldn’t find it.

    It rained the whole way there and back.  On the road I learned the one-way bridge etiquette.  One goes from one side, then one from another until both lines have no more cars.  Some mainlanders rush in and aggressively take space.  It’s easy to see why this is not liked.  It does not receive the two finger wave that means, “Great.  Thanks.  Aloha.”

    One trip over here, a few years back now, I brought my commuterman driving style with me.  Commuterman goes with the flow, but does not, ever yield.  In two-fisted rush hour driving this has some logic, though not much else, to commend it.  In this case I confronted a guy on a one-way bridge, asserted myself like the Dodge Charger ahead of me did today.  A young Hawai’ian got out and, totally without the Aloha spirit, told me what he thought of my driving, tourists and tourism in general.  I fought back.

    Today I see the stupidity and the unnecessary nature of that conflict.  Wish I could find him and say, sorry, I’m a more polite guy now.

    Mario suggested the Ono-Char Burger stand just beyond Aliomanu Road on the way to Kapaa.  I stopped there today. He was right. This is one great burger.   Get on a plane, land in Lihue, drive north on 50, go past the 13 mile marker and pay attention on the right.  Duane will make sure you get a good one.

    Went grocery shopping.  Two half pints of blueberries: $8.  Microwave ready bacon: 8.19.  And so on.  Hawai’i has twice the inflation rate of the mainland and one run through the grocery store and a stop for $3.67 a gallon gas will tell you why. 

    Also noticed here in the Da Fish Shack the corrosive power of salt spray.  All the exposed metal has oxidized and looks poorly maintained when it may be almost new.

    Had my snack, now to try a nap.


  • A Rainy Day on Kauai

    8:28AM  70 degrees (which feels cool to this spoiled Minnesotan)  Anahola Bay (east shore of Kauai) 

    Cloudy and gray.  Spitting rain rated 90% likely to tip over into heavy rain.  Feels like I’ve moved to a different place entirely.  The gray ocean out the front door of Da Fish Shack looks like Lake Superior in November.  Though the palm tree and African Tulip (think Minnesota Buckthorn) between me and the ocean suggest a different locale (think Kauai).

    Cool last night.  Cool enough that I got up and found a new blanket to add to the light cover on the bed when I came.  A little trouble sleeping at first with the ocean so close and constant, new bed but woke up at 8 AM feeling refreshed.

    Now I have to consider what to do on a rainy day.  I have to do some grocery shopping and I want to try the Ono Char Burgers for lunch.  Mario said they were among the best on the planet, so burgers it is for the midday meal.

    My inclination right now, based on the pattern set by the last couple of weeks, is to go slow and lay low.  Tuesday before 2PM I’m gonna be in Hanalei for the farmer’s market, which an article says is a great place to meet locals and sample locally produced food.  Must be popular since they ring a bell at 2pm, drop a rope, then, let the shopping begin!

    Kate’s on her way back or already home, so this leaves me in solo traveler mode.  I tend to be more introspective when alone, though I’m plenty that way in a group or with Kate, too.  A week to focus on Taoism, the ocean, the island and read a book Kate found at the Lihue Borders,  Honor Killing.  It is the true story of a sensational crime and trial in 1930’s Hawai’i that, the author David Stannard claims ,changed Hawai’i from an oligarchic, plantation-based fascist state to the modern, liberal democracy and multicultural phenom it is today.  A big premise and looks like an interesting read.  Thanks, Kate.

    Over the Pacific in several directions by byte and out.


  • A No Light Pollution Sky

    8:24 PM, February 23rd, Anahola Bay, Da Fish Shack

    There are three entries here.  This is because the ever vigilant Hyatt server cut me out at exactly 4:34PM yesterday.  I reverted to an older habit, travel journal entries in Word that I would then paste into my blog when I returned from a trip.  That’s where the ones below were made.

    Kate and I ate our last supper together here at a strange Japanese restaurant in Hanumalu.  The front was set up for a group event.  There were long tables with white table cloths and no menus, no wait person, no bartender.  When the bartender arrived, Kate asked about the sushi bar.  Oh, right this way.  In the way back there was a sushi bar, a traditional Japanese style dining set up with tables low to the floor, then a raised platform with tables and chairs (where Kate and I chose to sit).  Later, I discovered another set of rooms in another area.   These had the traditional sliding doors with rice paper and again, low tables.  To this occidental mind it was difficult to follow the organization, but it made perfect sense to everybody else.

    It was sad to see Kate go.  She felt two weeks was as long as she could be gone.  We hugged and kissed, then she took off with her carry-ons and checked baggage.  I made my way back here in the dark.

    Da Fish Shack, glory be, has an excellent wireless router, actually a superior connection to the one I got for my $15.00 a day at the Hyatt.  To add insult to injury, when I first opened my browser here, the #$%!@ Hyatt website kept coming up and wouldn’t let me load anything.

    The no light pollution sky sings over the Pacific here in Anahola Bay.  The ocean comes, comes, comes but does not quite arrive. It comes and recedes, but it leaves crushed sand, shells and the certainty it will return. 

    You will hear from me later.  Aloha.

    8:05 AM February 23rd, 2008

    Watched the resort wake up again this morning.  A woman lifted up a large green door near one of the pools and crawled inside.  Two men with stone working materials in a small motorized garden cart got stuck negotiating a narrow turn and skidded along the walk rail.  A few bleary eyed tourists just off the plane wandered the grounds, trying to get oriented, both to time and place.

    Meditated.  I have much to learn about how Taoists meditate.  It is a forgetting of the surroundings, a gradual extinguishing of sensory input.  I find this more difficult than the type of centering meditation I have used in the past, but I suspect that’s because I don’t understand the methods well at all.  That will come in the next course I’m taking from my teacher.

    In reading Alan Watts the other morning I had a familiar, and welcome, feeling.  As I read, my body grew quiet and the world around faded out, my senses began to sink in toward the mid-point of my chest.  This is the feeling I get when some new knowledge or perspective has begun to “sink in.”

    Taoism feels right, feels true.  Something I’ve sought for years, maybe my whole life.  A lot more to learn, but my body has already told me a long search has come to an end.

    As they say in another tradition, hallelujah.

    We check out here this morning.  This afternoon at 1pm we have our tour of the Allerton Gardens.  At 3 I can check in to Da Fish Shack.  Kate’s plane doesn’t leave until 8 or so tonight, so we might head over to Hanalei for the Pinetrees Surf Contest.

    Travel Journey:  Kauai,  6:47 PM, February, 22, 2008

    The internet service here went down one week after I purchased it, about 2 hours ago.  This entry is in Word, which I will paste into the blog the next time I find a computer friendly environment.

    Whales spouted, breached and slapped their flukes in the bay.  Put together whales, volcanoes, sunny warm days, the aloha spirit of the native Hawai’ians and a botanical diversity that gladdens the eye and the heart, then you have a recipe for an unusual time.  

    These winter months bring the whales to breed and give birth.  The volcanoes are ever present, from the very much alive Kilauea and Mauna Loa on the Big Island, to the long extinct like the ancient shield volcano that created Kauai.  On the windward side of all the islands there can be rain, but sun shine is only a few minutes away by car.

    Though there is the hostile sovereignty movement, in general the Hawai’ians whom I’ve encountered seem genuine and warm.  Much like, in fact, the way many people see Minnesotans.

    Here ginger, o’hia, antherium, plumeria, gardenia, coconut and royal palms, ferns and more ferns, philodendron, ti, acacia (koa), banyan, cactuses, orchids, and bromeliads all thrive in the soil made from eroded lava and deteriorated plant matter. 

    All this mixes together into an ineffable tonic, one that brings an involuntary smile, even a giggle to your soul.

    I’ve been many places, but for sheer refreshment and relaxation, Hawai’i beats them all.


  • Its Prettiest 5.1 Million Year Old Face

    4:37 PM here.  81.  Sunny.  Clear.  Just another…

    Kate and I just got back from a trip to Waimea Canyon.  Clear this time. 

     Along the way we stopped at the Kauai Coffee Company Visitor Center and Museum.  Talk about underwhelming.  And not just because I shifted to tea a while back.

    The video explained how they took a 3,400 acre sugarcane farm with 400 workers and transformed it into a coffee estate with the same acreage and only 57 workers.  The magic ingredient?  Mechanization.  They have designed mechanical pickers and pruners.  The pruners are necessary because the pickers can only pick coffee berries at 4+ feet and below.  With the mechanization they can harvest 24 hours a day, 7 days a week.   This is, I got the impression, a good thing.  Fertilization, on Kauai’s rich volcanic soil, and irrigation, because Kauai’s rains come at an inconvenient time of year, winter, round out the why did I stop here in the first place list.

    We also stopped at Waimea Plantation Cottages for lunch.   We stayed there in 1998 and Kate has not forgotten a significant fact.  NO air conditioning.  When asked if they were air conditioned, our waiter looked bemused, “No.  No AC.  You have to go to a hotel for that.  Or, you could stay in the cabins up in Kokee State Park.”  

    Which reminds me that when Kate needed meds late in the evening, I asked the concierge whether there was a 24-hour pharmacy.  She looked at me with another bemused expression and said, “This is Hawai’i.” 

    Waimea Canyon had its on prettiest 5.1 million year old face today.  Red cliffs, sinuous streams and water falls so thin they get buffeted by the wind.  We drove on to the Kalalau lookout, near the end of the road, got out and went over to the railing which looks down into the Kalalau valley.  Ancient Hawai’ians lived there and in the 60’s and 70’s so did back-to-the-land types.  The state moved them out a while ago.

    Spectacular doesn’t described this lookout.  Knife edged walls of eroded stone creat a u-shaped valley with a beach and ocean view at the northern end and a steep 2,000 foot cliff face at the southern.  The lookout is atop this cliff so the view shows the valley below and the Pacific stretched out to the horizon.  It is in this valley where much of the Jurassic Park movies were filmed.

    We’re back now for the evening and night, then we check out tomorrow morning.


  • Last Day on the South Shore

    7:27AM Trade winds suppressed so the days remain sunny and clear.

    Last full day at the Hyatt and the last day of internet access here at the ridiculous prices.

    I will not miss the Hyatt. It was fun the first couple of days, maybe three, but after that the time became strangely flat. It wasn’t that I didn’t have a good time, but it was a good time I could have had in a city, say, San Francisco, one on the ocean. Good to great food, good scenery, ocean, reasonable service, but my experiment in the full resort experience showed me that it’s not what I want.

    Da Fish Shack, my next residence, is right on the beach no phone, no internet, no service. I’m looking forward to it.

    Off to breakfast. Bursitis in my right hip has me off the hiking for now. So, I’ll just hang out. Oh, darn.


  • Posting Will Slow Down

    NB:  After tomorrow (February 22) updates will become sporadic until March 1st when I return to Minnesota.  Da Fish Shack, the place I move to after the Hyatt, does not have any internet access. 

    I will post from internet cafes, but right now don’t know about locations, access.

    The afternoon sun (it’s 4:41PM) has raised the temperature to the low 80’s, but that will soon start to fall.  Cool mornings, hot midday and cool evenings and nights.  Just right if you have the sense to stay out of the midday sun.  You, Englishmen and mad-dogs and, it turns out, resort goers.  I’ve never understood sun exposure when it burns.  First, it hurts.  Second, as you get older, it can really hurt.  Plus, you get hot and sweaty. What’s not to like?

    Kate’s listening to the last disc of five novels, two sets of 30+ discs per novel.  They are all set in the same universe and include a heroic female doctor.  Hmmm.

    Just finished a book on the geology of Kauai.  I love geology and find the Hawai’ian archipelago fascinating.  It has plate tectonics, vulcanism, erosion, orographic rainfall, diversity of eco-systems created by geological formations and the persistent presence of the oceans and the trade winds.

    Spoke to a wood carver this morning.  An older guy with a silver earring and a blue and white ginger shirt, he carved koa wood as he talked.  He lives on Kauai but travels, some time for months.   “When I come back, the garden’s hopeless.  It’s always summer here.”  He doesn’t do wood block prints, but he does do kanji and Chinese ideograms as well as story boards, illustrations of Hawai’ian legend and folktales.

    Also spoke to two gardners who were using tools unfamiliar to me.  Both of them looked handy and the Filipino gardner, who spoke little English, did know where I could get them, “Home Depot!”  That fits.  I bought gas last night at the Costco outside of Lihue with my Costco cash card.


  • A Separate Kingdom

    What can I say?  Another day in paradise.

    Kauai has the nickname a separate kingdom because it lies 100 miles west of Oahu, both furthest west and furthest apart of all the high islands.  It has remnants of two periods of vulcanism, the early constructive, shield building phase about 5.1 million years ago and a rejuvenation stage, late in the destructive process, that happened aroud 1.0 million to o.5 million.

    The northshore, Na Pali (the cliffs), has served as the set for several movies, most notably the Jurassic Park trilogy.  I have hiked the Kalalau trail, about 6 miles or so, a trail created by ancient Hawai’ians who lived in Kalalau valley among others.  The trail was necessary because the Northern Pacific storms in winter (now) create such high waves that access, even by these experienced oceanfolk, was not possible.

    Ate breakfast this morning at the Ilima Terrace. Ilima is a succulent plant that grows off runners and edges the beaches usually about thirty or forty feet back from the water.  The terrace overlooks the Pacific and has a wonderful sea breeze.  Very peaceful.

    After a 30 plus minute walk, I sat down in the chairs situated at the ocean end of the grand entrance, drank water and listened to a talk about a blue and gold macaw, Duke, a greenwing macaw, Riko, and a salmon colored cockatoo, Maliel.   Still trying to soak up the resort experience and atmosphere.  Conclusion so far?  At its best the resort provides a place to relax.  A no brainer?  Maybe, but it could be missed in the activities and food and water sports.