Category Archives: Travel

Returning to Normal

Spring                                                          Bee Hiving Moon

Finally beginning to settle back into home life.  Exercise back on track, though not quite up to pre-trip standards, but close enough.  It will get there.  Concentrating on Latin and then Kate’s pacemaker maintenance on Thursday kept me from getting back into my usual rhythm, but I did get substantial work done in Ovid.

We had our business meeting this morning and our finances are on track, as they have been, but it’s nice to see they are still after a long trip.  Travel is the budget buster in our house and we have to keep close watch over it.

So, a couple of deep breaths, the weekend and back to it.  Then we leave on the 23rd for Gabe’s birthday weekend.  Kate and I are going together, driving this time.  As I said the other day, I’m hopeful the soil will be workable enough to plant the cool weather crops before we go.

 

Now That I’m Here; Was I Really There?

Spring                                                          Bee Hiving Moon

The snow has come, as predicted. Heavy since around 2 pm.  April?

As it falls, so has the night and with the night the quiet.  While on my trip, no matter where I was the rooms were noisy: traffic outside, television leaking from the room next door, the heaters and air conditioners working in agony, basketballs thumping on the court next to my room at the Resident’s Inn.  I have become used to, dependent on the silence here.  It’s absence grates, draws my attention and focus away.

Of course, there are the noises here, familiar ones that I incorporate.  The train whistles far in the distance.  The occasional great gray owl hoots.  The metal clicking, contracting and expanding as my gas heater responds to changes in the room’s temperature.  But these are gentle noises, not so much intrusive as atmospheric.  At least to me.

It’s interesting though how, once back in the familiar, the far away can come to seem dreamlike, maybe not real.  Were those great kiva’s built of stone, yet curved into perfect circles?  How could that be?  Are there vast expanses of land filled with catci and other desert adapted plants?  Did I walk through a hole in the earth, past a twilit zone where light from the sun vanished forever?  Did I keep going then, deeper?  Were there those others who gathered to listen intently to their own inner life?  Was it hot there? Did I visit a city where many of the buildings, businesses and homes alike were made of adobe and had fireplaces built into an interior wall?

Bishop Berkeley, the English idealist, is famous for his dictum, Esse est percipi. That is, to be is to be perceived. Once I’ve stopped seeing something, touching it, smelling it, hearing it, tasting it it’s reality, for me, begins to fade.  In fact, Berkeley would go so far as to say that I have no way of proving Santa Fe exists apart from my mental idea of it.  The same for Chaco Canyon, the Saguaro, the Intensive Journal Workshop.  And he would be right.

Yet there is, too, David Hume’s equally famous response.  He kicked a table or a door frame and said, “I refute it thus.”

So, though I can not convince you of the desert’s reality with my words about it, I do expect it to be there the next time I visit the southwest.  That’s how stubborn our minds can be.

What Is My Life Reaching For?

Spring                                                              Bee Hiving Moon

On the last afternoon of the Intensive Journal Workshop we had an exercise focused on what our life is reaching for.  In the first morning we had defined the current period of our life: in my case the time after Kate’s retirement.  By the last afternoon we had worked ourselves into the next period of our lives.  Since we were newly in this next period, this exercise asked us to feel, below the conscious level, where our lives wanted to go.

Here is my sense of what my life is reaching for in this next period:

1. a bountiful, sustainable nutrient dense harvest of fruit and vegetables.

2. a way to use the Great Wheel website to advance the Great Work through literature, science and political activism.

3. a third phase (third lifetime) writing portfolio with short story writing credits as a floor for selling novels.

4. a schedule for translating and commenting on at least several books of the Metamorphoses

5. still more of a stable, wonderful marriage, regular visits and communication with kids and grandkids and friends.

6. more mutual travel opportunities with Kate.

As I work in the inner movement of my life, I can feel a quieting, a confidence that who I am and what I do is enough-no matter the outcomes.  This feeling has grown stronger since Kate retired and continues to strengthen with time.

In my third lifetime I will be calm, steady, productive.

 

Goodbye From Acova, Iowa

Spring                                           New Bee Hiving Moon

Last report from the road.  Acova, Iowa.  Acova Motor Inn.

Long ago read a travel writer commenting on America.  He said one of our great boons to travelers is cheap, good lodging.  He’s right.  I’m in the Acova Inn, $45 a night.  It’s a clean, independent motel with working heat, internet connection, cable tv, coffee maker, microwave and refrigerator.

And in this he reveals a component of the American character.  We go.  Ever since the days of the pioneers (and, yes, I stipulate the dark side of the frontier, but also recognize the bravery of those folks on foot, horseback or covered wagon.), we have wandered across this great land, sometimes with a purpose:  new job, visit family, find land, get away from crowds, but just as often with a large dash of whimsy, journey for the sake of journey.

In many other parts of the world, for thousands of years, people have been born and died close to their village, often without going very far from home.  Nomads are not an exception because they followed food, either for themselves or their live stock.  Over the last 100 years or so there has been a giant sucking sound as cities hoover up those former villages into themselves, but there the travel, if there is much, is between village and city and back again.

And, yes, I stipulate the deadly effect of the internal combustion engine and the predatory nature of the railroad builders.  It occurred to me often on this trip that our travel urges have burned a lot of gasoline.

Maybe the road is a siren, her beautiful voice luring us to our doom, but I find her a book opening page after page of wonders, a picture book for adults.  There the pump jack bobbing up and down, up and down.  There a jack rabbit with those big heat radiating ears.  A sunset against the saguaro that calls to mind dime novels by Zane Grey.  Pine covered mountains that remind us of the land that will be in a million years.  Waters running from state to state, from ocean to ocean as snowmelt crosses continental divides. Even the highway signs warning of dangerous sand storms, no visibility, pull out of the traffic lane to stop.

Too, there are the depths of Carlsbad Caverns, the tall saguaro gathered in assembly along the valley floor and the abandoned architecture of the Chaco Canyon culture.  The low flat houses of Tucson and the adobe houses of Santa Fe show up as do the octagonal hogans of the dine people and the swallow like residences of the pueblos.

Later in the year thunderheads will build over the plains and splash down water on fields of wheat where the arid west gives way to the humid east.  All this and never leaving the nation.

I will have traveled almost 4,000 miles and missed the whole deep south, the eastern seaboard and the western one.  I will miss most of the midwest, too, only brushing it in Iowa before I enter the upper midwest, my home.  That happens today.

Goodbye from Acova, Iowa where all the motels are above average.

An Attack of the Stupids

Spring                                                     New Bee Hiving Moon

At around 10 this morning I called home to report a serious attack of the stupids.  Kate immediately said, “You left your pillow behind.”  Smacking the forehead.  Two attacks of the stupids.

Yes, I had left my pillow behind, after all these stops.  But that wasn’t the reason I was calling.  I had set the garmin aside, reasoning that this is a trip I’ve made many, many times.  I knew the way.

So I set off toward the airport on Highway 70.  As I often do when leaving Denver, I watched the mountains recede in the rear view mirror, switched on the cruise control, stuck a new mystery novel in the cd slot and sat back for a mornings drive, headed home.

Well, sort of.  I kept waiting for the road to turn north, for the town where I often stop for lunch coming into Denver, it’s just in Colorado, not long at all after the turn south from Nebraska.

There was the sign ahead, leaving Colorado.  Ah.  Then. Oops.  Because there was the sign, welcome to Kansas. Sigh.  It’s Highway 76 that leads out of Denver toward Highway 80 in Nebraska.  70 goes through Kansas.  Oh.

I pulled out the atlas, thanks again Tom, and scouted a route north and east first through Kansas then a route east in Nebraska as I headed toward a southern dip in Highway 80.  Finally, at Lexington, Nebraska I rejoined the federal highway system.

Part of what occupied my time as I left Colorado, before I turned on the book, was thinking about the difference between the southern and western states through which I’d passed and the level plains on which I would now drive well into Minnesota.  In this thought process I was not navigating but pondering.

The arid lands beginning in Oklahoma, continuing in west Texas and southern New Mexico and into Arizona are areas which offer little in the way of useful habitation for humans.  They’re dry, with vegetation not of much use for food, and water sources distant.  When you get into the mountains of northern Arizona and New Mexico, there is more vegetation, but the soils are poor and the land often sloping and rocky.

These are areas with great natural beauty, but also severe challenges for contemporary living.  The plains, in contrast, have a beauty that is horizon and sky, fertile fields, grain elevators and small towns with white Protestant churches and brick Catholic ones.  In the plains there is a dominant occupation, farming, and, in the not so distant, a larger number of farmers.  Though the number of farmers has declined, farming still dominates the plains economy.

In the arid south and west, whether desert or mountain, there is no dominant occupation, no similar fixed anchors to an economy headed by oil and tourism and the federal government.

This was running through my head as I drove on Highway 70 headed toward Kansas instead of Nebraska.  Then I thought of our home in Andover, in Anoka county.  In the northern part of Anoka County where we live the forests and lakes, the high water table land is the southern reach of the great peat bogs that stretch right up to the beginnings of the boreal forest.

So I realized that I do not live in either the economically and resource poor south and south west, but neither do I live in the agriculturally dominant plains.  Instead I live where a different kind of economically and resource poor region begins.  If you subtract logging and mining from the lands north of us, there is only land not much good for agriculture, but rich, like the northern portions of Arizona and New Mexico in natural beauty.

Yes, I admit it.  That thinking distracted from proper navigation.

Daughter-in-law Jen got my pillow.  So all the consequences of this dreamy episode are now erased.  Do you imagine I can find Minnesota?

 

 

 

 

 

 

On the Way

Spring                                                New Bee Hiving Moon

Ruth has gone home.  Gabe has gone home.  Jon has gone home.  Jen has gone home.  The last of the trip’s intentions are now over.  All that remains is for me to go home.

Tomorrow morning, breakfast, then in the car for the next to last day.  This Ford Focus is a good car.  It’s set up well for a road trip.  I’ve gotten 35 mpg on average.

Trips have their own rhythms and this one has begun to turn toward home and away from traveling; now it’s a return.  Returns do not have the anticipation of new adventures, new sights, but they do have something better. Returns take us home.  It is only with home in mind that we can set off with confidence into the unknown. Home is the known, the safe place, the refuge.

It’s where Kate is.  Where Vega, Rigel and Gertie are.  Where the gardens and the orchard are.  Where the study is.  Where most of life happens.  I’m ready to get home.

Magical

Spring                                       Hare Moon

Several hours with granddaughter Ruth.  She asks questions from her much despised car seat while the car hums on asphalt, these old ears not able to pick up much of the high pitched chatter.  It tests my intelligence to appear to be listening.  I want to, but even the good ear doesn’t allow it.

Once in a while:  “Question.  Grandpop, have you finished your book?”  Yes, I have and its out to agents right now. “Agents.” They try to sell your book for you. “Oh.  Does it have any pictures?” Nope. “I’ve gotten really good at visualizing when I’m reading.  Question. (she actually says, question) How long is it?”  About 100,000 words.  “Is 100, 000 more than a million?”  No, it takes 10 100,000’s to make a million. “Oh.  Well, if I read your book ten times, I would get a million word medal.”

We went to the Colorado History Museum which has changed to visitor friendly exhibits.  Good for kids, a bit disappointing for me. Ruth loves to set the pattern of the dynamite in a mining demonstration, then push the plunger.  The patterns are complex and she remembers them perfectly each time.

Time with grandkids has a magical quality and I think it’s partly because the issue of mortality is so squarely and honestly on the table.  I’ll die long before Ruth and we both know that.  It gives these times together a depth and seriousness that rides below the surface of ice cream cones and bagels.

Her world is bicycles, books and imminent release from her car seat.  Mine is love, legacy and creativity.  Probably not that different in their essence.

And she wore me out.  Time for a nap.

 

 

Land of Enchantment

Spring                                                      Hare Moon

Santa Fe.  The adobe here catches the eyes, then the scent of pinyon smoke and the art galleries.  Also, the number of thin gray-haired citizens moving around with purpose, as if channeling Georgia O’Keefe.  It’s easy to imagine a chunk of this Latin influenced culture breaking off and taking root in other places.  An emphasis on beauty, use of native products and Latin American diffusion carried by sophisticated Latinos, artists, writers and outdoor enthusiasts.  Maybe as Chaco Canyon was to the pueblo cultures of the 850-1150 period.

By this time in the trip the Garmin, once unwelcome, has made me her bitch.  I hang on her every word, follow her exactly.  I think the voice model they hired might have been a dominatrix at some point.  It does take away the anxiety of navigating, especially in cities and off the main highway systems.  I like that.

When I drove from Holbrook to Gallup at 4 am yesterday, a sickle moon hung in the sky with Venus about 4 degrees away in line with the bottom point of the sickle.  It is an image that I will work with in the journal.  The pueblo people emulate the clouds, building up communities, then dissipating and moving on.  This moon hung in a clear sky and it was not difficult at all to stand with the pueblo people and the dine of the last thousand plus years and see with them the blessing.  The clouds created by the heat of the day would extend this beauty into the blue reaches of a sunlit sky.

Our kiva sees the same moon and planet, sees clouds in the day and the procession of stars at night.  Yes, our seasons are different, but plants grow in both our kivas and so do animals.  We are different, yet we are the same.

Mr. Ellis Regrets

Spring                                           Hare Moon

Just the last few things left in the room.  This “room” by the way has a kitchen and a small living room.  It’s a very comfortable way to live away from home.  I might try Residence Inns again sometime.  Not too expensive either, especially if you stack it up against a mid-priced hotel.

Been googling and looking at the EZY READ atlas Tom got me.  I don’t know why they say large print.  Doesn’t look large to me.  Chaco Canyon may, to my regret, be a road too far.  Gallup is 6 hours from here, not 4 as I figured for some reason.  That meant I could have gotten there by 9 pm MST with just 4 hours driving.  6 hours after a full workshop day is probably too much.

Haven’t decided what to do yet, but I can make Denver by Friday afternoon to surprise the birthday girl in two reasonably easy days if I skip Chaco Canyon.  I’ll still want to catch something, though I’m not sure what.  Not sure what route I’ll take either.  That will have an impact on what I can see, of course.

Anyhow as of this afternoon the trip turns north, back to the land of ice and snow.

A Rare Dining Experience

Spring                                              Hare Moon

I may have inadvertently added to the selection of Korean dishes available in Tucson.  At Takamatsu’s, a Korean-Japanese restaurant, I went in hoping for a raw beef Korean dish that is served with sesame oil over daikon with an egg yolk in the top.   The name wouldn’t come to me and I asked the waitress, a local Tucson white girl, who shook her head.  Nope, nothing like on that menu.

So, I asked her about sashimi, since I couldn’t find it on the menu either.  Yes, she said.  Right there.  It was on a long paper menu to be filled out at the table.  I checked the 10 piece sashimi dinner and waited for her return.

Instead, the owner came out.  A Korean, I think, (might have been Japanese), he said, “You’re talking about and he used a name that didn’t sound familiar to me.  Like steak tartar, in a mound with an egg yolk on top?”  That was it. “Well,” he said, “We don’t have much of a Korean community so we took off the menu 17 years ago.”  Oh, well.  I understood.  Thanks.

He went away.  Then, he came back.  “My chef says she can make it for you.  She’s the same chef we’ve had for 18 years.  She’ll take frozen rib-eye and slice it up.”  I smiled, “That sounds great.”

After my waitress brought me the usual Korean side dishes of kimchee, bean sprouts, spinace, pickled radish and thin sliced potatoes, she filled my tea pot.

She left and came back with a beautiful mound of raw beef, an egg yolk in the top, all sprinkled with sesame oil and seeds.  But on thinly sliced apple.

It was delicious.  Best I’ve ever had.

The owner came back after I’d finished. “The chef says maybe we’ll put it back on the specials menu.”  I tipped the chef.