Category Archives: Travel

El Dorado. Kansas.

Imbolc                                                Hare Moon

Now you may be asking yourself, what kind of place is El Dorado, Kansas?  At the Red Coach Inn breakfast Fox News was on the television.  I could have purchased a Glenn Beck book titled Control for $7.64 from the Inn’s magazine rack and the local paper had, on the front page, news that a new middle school sidewalk had been built.

In that paper a Senator in the Kansas legislature wondered if increasing opportunities for Kansans to protect themselves made more sense than increasing criminal penalties.  After all, he said, “In rural Kansas an intruder is still likely to be met with a shotgun.”

This is the plains and red state plains at that.  Its scenery is stark and often, to my eye, beautiful, but in the manner of an abstract painting, shape and color predominate.

In an hour and a half or so I’ll not, like Toto, be in Kansas anymore.

 

 

I Found El Dorado

Imbolc                                                Hare Moon

El Dorado, Kansas

First, thank you Garmin for the easy routing through Kansas City.  I know now why I’ve never succeeded too well on my own.  Whoever that woman is they have trapped in there, she knows her K.C. highways.

Driving through Minnesota, then Iowa and into Missouri is not a topographic paradise though I like seeing the growing wind farms in sight of 35 in Iowa.  The snow began to disappear south of Des Moines, but the countryside all through those states had that glum grimy appearance that makes you want to grab a good shampoo and go after it until it brightens up.  The sky, too, was gray.

The garmin guided me around K.C., no sights there either.  My initial goal was to get beyond the Kansas border, but I accomplished that by about 5:00 pm or so and decided to go on a bit.  Then I hit the Flint Hills.  If you’ve not driven through them, they would surprise you.  They are long, long stretches of uninhabited grassland largely given over to cattle grazing and oil wells.

That meant when I stopped in Emporia and found the Food Show was in town sucking up all the available hotel beds, I had to travel another 50 miles to get here, El Dorado.  The first place I tried here was full, too.  The refinery turnaround the desk clerk said. Oh.

Anyhow the Best Western further in had a room and so I’m down for the night.

Tomorrow I’ll travel through my birth state, Oklahoma.  There are lots of family memories there, but few of mine.

It’s good to be on the road.

On the Road Again

Imbolc                                                                  Hare Moon

A Minnesota send off in the air this morning.  Looks like the  storm track is northerly, so I should drive out of it soon.

Ancientrails will be coming to you from the road for the next couple of weeks.  Tonight somewhere in the area of Kansas City, hopefully beyond it though that might be pressing.

Friend Tom Crane bought me a large print road atlas for the journey.  Ha!  It’s a good addition to the garmin.  I’ll use it often on the way.  Thanks, Tom.

Do You Know Any Stars?

Imbolc                                                                            Hare Moon

Back in the early 90’s I spent a week plus in a residential library in Hawarden, Wales.  I took a side trip or two, one to Holywell where I visited the Holy Well of St. Winifred, site of the ancient healing of a Celtic woman named Winifred by her uncle Bueno.  Her head had been cut off by a suitor from Hawarden named Caradoc.

While I was there I met a short, thick Welshman.  When he discovered (immediately) that I was an American, he asked me, “Da ya know any stars?”  At first I didn’t get it, then I realized he was talking about Hollywood stars.  “No,” I explained, “I’m about 1,500 miles from Los Angeles.”  “Yes, yes,” he said, “But do ya know any stars?”

The old world experience of distance is different from ours and it’s easy to forget that.  This trip to Tucson will pass from gardening zone 4 to gardening zone 9.  It will go south of the line, the 37th latitude boundary, above which we get no vitamin D in the winter months.  It will pass even further, down below latitude 35, a full 10 degrees from the home world here in Minnesota, to 32 degrees latitude.  I’ll drive, too, from 93 degrees longitude to Tucson’s 111.

In Europe, driving south from Holywell, Wales you would have to go on past Naples by another 150 miles to achieve the same distance.  That means going through England, across the Chunnel, then across France, all of Switzerland and penetrating almost to the boot of Italy.  That sounds like an epic journey, crossing cultures and history as well as distance.

Yet I will drive the same distance to get to Tucson, 1650 miles.  No wonder the Welshman wondered if I knew any stars.

And Parts South

Imbolc                                                             Hare Moon

Road trip.  I love traveling with Kate and we’ve had many good trips already and will have many more.  I also love traveling alone.  Or, you might say, I just love to travel.  Less so now maybe than in years past, but not by much and now that’s only so because of the strong pull home has for me.  It takes some time to get past the inertia created by a place that fits my life so well.

Once I get on the road though, I’m there.  I love the randomness of travel, the mistakes and the happy accidents.  This is, I’m pretty sure, a direct reflection of my father’s love of just getting in the car and going somewhere.  He had a traveling gene, maybe one from that blacksheep Grandpa Elmo who finally lit out for the territories. It’s no surprise that Mary’s in Singapore and Mark’s in Muhayil, Saudi Arabia.

That’s not to say I don’t appreciate the destination.  I plan to descend into Carlsbad Caverns, have a wonderful workshop in Tucson, get in some hiking in the Catalina Mountains and see as much of Chaco Canyon as I can.  After being reminded of its existence by Mark Odegard, I may also take a side trip to Manitou Springs, Colorado, a vestigial remnant of sixties culture stuck in the Rockies west of Colorado Springs.

But along the way I’ll have a lot of time by myself on the road. I’ll see new towns and new topography.  Some things will appear that haven’t occurred to me, but that seem good at the moment.  And, of course, there’s road food.  Especially the tex-mex and other Mexican flavored cuisines of the southwest.  Not long now.

Coming Up in March

Imbolc                                                                      Hare Moon

Looking down the month toward our 24th anniversary (Monday) and the date I’m wheels 1000Kate and Charlie in Edenon the road for Tucson (the 18th).  24 years with Kate and our relationship improves like fine wine, gaining more nuance and depth, more body with each passing year.  This year we return to the Nicollet Island Inn for dinner, the spot from which we launched our honeymoon.  As spring rolled forward in March of 1990 those three weeks in Europe were as good a beginning as the marriage itself. Next year we’ll celebrate our 25th anniversary at Mama’s Fish House on Maui.

The Tucson trip grows closer.  These rolling retreats, as I like to think of alone time behind the wheel, are really just road trips.  Road trips are part of the American way, peregrinatio updated for the age of the internal combustion engine.

This one of course has its focus self discovery, focus, personal deepening so it will have a more spiritual note, but it will also include my usual visits to spots of natural and historic interest.  Among the possibilities are Carlsbad Caverns, the Saguaro forests, a state park or two in Arizona, the Sonoran Desert Museum, Mt. Kitt, Chaco Canyon, Joshua Tree National Park (probably not, but it’s within reach) and a second visit to the Arbor Day lodge and farm in Nebraska City, Nebraska.

You Canceled It For What?

Imbolc                                                                 Valentine Moon

Sister Mary had a chance to keynote a conference on education.  She’s spoken at several conferences, but never keynoted before.  An honor.  But.

She wrote that her flight to the island of Java had been canceled and she would not be able to make it to the conference.  Why?  Volcanic eruption.  Mt. Kelud. (see right)

It grounded planes and caused tens of thousands of people to flee.  I wrote back and said that was a new one for this flatlander, located mid-continent.  Snow, yes.  Ice, yes.  Even flooding.  But volcanic eruption?  Quite the exotic reason for cancellation sitting in Minnesota.  Not so exotic in Indonesia, a very volcanically active and earthquake active region of the world.  It is, too, the fourth largest nation in the world by population.

Where is Mt. Kelud?

 

It’s A Big World After All

Imbolc                                                                  Valentine Moon

It’s so easy to sit here, exurban house with woods, center of North America, a long string of way below zero nights and three feet of snow on the ground, it’s so easy to sit here and not see the rest of the world.

Case in point.  My brother writes from Muhayil, Saudi Arabia.  It’s in the southern third of Asir province, red on this map.  You can see that Asir borders Yemen, right where the red touches the gray.

He received a warning from the American embassy today about terrorism.  The embassy does not allow their staff within 50 miles of Yemen. He’s 100 miles. That’s not far as the shrike flies.  In the same e-mail he talks about a man crucified nearby for practicing witchcraft.  That was 2011.  He says the Saudi government can and does publicly behead criminals, then flys their body around attached to a helicopter.

That’s terrorism, witchcraft, beheading and public display of a body by helicopter.  True, we have Michelle Bachman, crack houses, pick-up trucks on the lakes and snowmobiles but we can’t touch that four.

 

 

Da Fish Shack

Imbolc                                                           Valentine Moon

On the north shore of Kaua’i there is a small cabin, no air conditioning, set right on the beach.  The shore is outside.  It’s called Da Fish Shack.  If you go there, you’ll find entries in its book from two Woolly Mammoths, Mark Odegard and me.  Mark’s are beautiful images drawn in his immediately recognizable style, mine carved in my cursive, also, unfortunately, immediately recognizable.

(Na Pali coast)

It’s a treasure at $90 a day (now $99, I discovered.), a place to sink into the island and the ocean.  Today it is on my mind.  Instead of looking at the weather console reading -17 earlier this morning, I could look out on just another day in paradise.  The Pacific would be there, waters and weather streaming down from Alaska and the Bering Sea, but tempered by the more southerly ocean. Not far away lies Hanalei and the Na’pali coastline.  The Limahuli gardens, too.

The pace is slow.  from a February 26th, 2008 entry:  “4:45PM 75.  Cloudy.  Ocean breeze.  Languid is the word.  Da Fish Shack has a languid atmosphere right now; I feel enervated by the languidness of it all.  Or something.”

 

Minnesota RV and Camper Show

Imbolc                                                            Valentine Moon

America.  You know you’re in the land of the free and the home of the credit card when you pay to get into a place so you can convince yourself to buy something pretty expensive.  That’s what Kate and I did today.  We went to the Minnesota RV and Camper Show at the Minneapolis Coliseum.

(class A)

We’ve gone on several memorable RV trips, all earlier in our marriage and both enjoy the road.  Kate in particular prefers modes of transportation that involve packing and unpacking least.  RV’s and cruise ships match up well.  Take the stuff out of the suitcases once, then pack it up to go home.  Bliss, as far as Kate’s concerned.  It’s not as important to me, but I see the advantage.

Our decision to keep multiple dogs has hampered our traveling by adding the cost of boarding.  Otherwise, we might have set out on a third phase wanderjahr, cruising the blue highways.

(class C)

The show has row after of fifth wheel trailers with pull-down picnic decks, slide-outs and fireplaces.  Yes, fireplaces.  The class C motorhomes, the cabforward and bedroom, kitchen, living area immediately behind, used to be somewhat affordable.  Now they’ve gone above $100,000, about what you would have paid for an A-class motorhome ten years ago.  Unless you have a very ample wallet, the design and craftsmanship on the lower and mid-range vehicles veers from cheesy to tinny.  $100,000 is a lot of money to pay for something with a door that flexes as you open it and stairs that wobble.

But Kate had seen something in the paper, something interesting.  Not cheap exactly, but approaching affordable.  The Vistabule teardrop trailer.  Made here in Minnesota by a man whose commitment to good work is evident, these units intrigue me.  A good way to see wilder places on the cheap without all the huffing and puffing of a pack.

Might be more on this later.