Category Archives: Travel

A Year Ago

Fall                                        Fallowturn Moon

The Mother of All Locks

Posted on October 24, 2011 by Charles

Fall Waning Autumn Moon

At 4:30 am the Veendam had a small tug pushing it toward the south to better position it for entering the Gatun Locks. An upside down sliver moon hung in the sky and the smells of a large oil refinery floated on deck from a brightly lit facility on the north shore of the canal’s entrance.

(frigate birds watching the ships go by)

Out in the ocean, behind us, were numerous ships, all brightly lit, all waiting for their turn in the long canal connecting the Atlantic basin and the Pacific.

Lockmeister Odegard would find this a fascinating journey through the Mother of All Locks. The Gatun can take ships up to 996 feet long and 110 feet wide. Even those generous dimensions long past feel outside the girth and length of the true ocean going monsters, mostly oil tankers, built so big that it still made economic sense to round Cape Horn. That problem with the Canal has a remedy underway, largely financed by the Chinese I think. It will build a third set of locks with capacity to handle these huge super ships on their journey from the oil fields of the Middle East to the oil hungry nations on the Pacific Rim.

The day is warm, though not so warm as the first time Kate and I made this journey. Starboard, our side, has the good fortune of facing north as we sail east to west, so our deck chairs have good shade.

Right now we are in Lake Gatun, the big artificial lake that provides the 51 million gallons of fresh water needed to step a ship up or down through the massive locks. These locks still  use the same massive doors and valves put in place in the early twentieth century.

A Year Ago

Fall                                                                              Fallowturn Moon

 

Fall Waning Autumn Moon

58 nautical miles south of Ft. Lauderdale, headed for Cuba and the strait between Cuba and Hispanola. Today was a quiet, uneventful day thanks to the high winds, including tornadoes, that struck the Everglades…

The promenade deck, our deck, has had few people on it, so I did some exercise tonight. Tomorrow and the next day are at sea as we make our way 1200 miles south to Santa Marta, Colombia. Santa Marta made Wired magazine last month as the site of an international coffee tasting competition. It is where Simon Bolivar died and was buried. We’ll find out more about in a couple of days.

With Santa Marta the South American portion of our journey gets underway, not to end until we leave the Rio Airport the day before Thanksgiving.

Fall Waning Autumn Moon  October 20th  10 am

A warm morning, sitting on the deck chair, watching Cuba roll by to the south/ Clumps of trees, sandy beaches and a few antenna installations mark this place, a testimony ot the overhang of the cold war. If it were not communist, this ship would stop in Havanna. Odd and more alluring as a result, the island seems a forbidden oasis of, what? Egalitarian socialism? Since we’re passing along its length, it will be in view a good while.

We have come approximately 300 nautical miles from Ft. Lauderdale’s Port Everglade. The night, a calm one, unlike the night before, lent itself to a gentle rocking and good sleeping. I checked the national hurricane center and there are no storms of consequence in the western Caribbean Sea.

Far Flung Family

Lugnasa                                                 Garlic Planting Moon

Brother Mark has touched down in Riyadh, capitol of Saudi Arabia, for another year of bringing the joys of English to Arab nationals.  It’s a challenging working environment, but he got through last year, so I’m sure he can do this one, too.  It takes a certain kind of person to be outside their birth culture and thrive.  Mark’s done it for 20 + years and so has Mary (sister).

I spoke with both of them today via Skype, a near miracle as far as I’m concerned.  Their premium service, which I just repurchased, allows Mark, Mary, and me to be on a visual call at the same time:  Riyadh–Singapore–Minnesota.  We did it several times last year and it amazed me every time.  (BTW:  Woollies who read this.  We could use my subscription to loop in Paul and Jimmy, too)

 

 

Mark’s Leaving Tomorrow

Lugnasa                                                    Hiroshima Moon

Another tour with developmentally disabled adults this morning.  A more interactive group this time though that might be because I had a better plan.

We focused on questions like:  Old or young?  What do you see that makes you say that?  Man or woman?  What do you see…?  How do you imagine Bartholomew feels?

Got good responses and attentiveness throughout our session.  It was a good feeling all round.

Today is Mark’s last day here.  He takes off tomorrow for Lansing, Michigan where our cousin Kristen lives.  Greyhound will carry him from here to there.  He plans to go to Detroit after that and visit our cousin Leisa who is in a nursing home after a stroke.  The rest of his visit, undecided.

His school year in Riyadh starts sometime after September 1st.  He has to be there between August 25th and then.  He hasn’t got his ticket yet because he has to get his visa redone, then send them on to the school’s folks here and they’ll book his ticket.

 

Decanting Myself Through Planes and Trains

Summer                                        Hiroshima Moon

At breakfast this morning a man came through the hotel corridor with three chocolate labs on leashes.  Had a funny reaction.  The dogs humanized the space.  People greeted the man, bent down to pet the dogs, yes, but the very presence of dogs made the place more human.  Odd.

Returned the rental car, Jon picked me up and we drove out to the airport.  He volunteered, so that made it special.  I’d already arranged the hotel shuttle, but was glad to cancel.

I’ve done the security shuffle, deshoeing, delittering pockets, disrobing my laptop, bagging my necessary liquids, remaining calm in the face of idiocy.

Lunch and then, since I had plenty of time my gate was at the very front, Gate 40 of 40 thru 99.  How bout that?

Living History

Summer                                       Hiroshima Moon

The Colorado History Museum tore down a perfectly good building filled with wonderful exhibits and built a new building in its place, a building with none of the exhibits.  A strange decision on their part, it seems to me, but, hey.  It’s their state.

In its place the same lot now contains a brand new history center, a large parking ramp and a court building, presumably a state court since the Colorado capitol building sits less than two blocks away.

The Colorado folks opted, in their new building, for a different approach to museology.  Whereas the old building had a cabinet of curiosities feel, it was a good one by my lights.  Still, its exhibits were static and didactic, familiar in style to any one acquainted with museums during the 20th century.

The new history center spikes on the engaged learner end of the new museological perspective.  The lobby has a ceiling made of wood from pine beetle destroyed trees.

Just inside the museum proper the first attraction is the floor.  A huge, maybe a hundred foot square map of colorado laid out in terrazzo tile, shows rivers, mountains, lakes and a few other key locations like Denver.  Latitude and longitude markings border the map on which sit two time machines.

Each machine has a distinctive steam punk style with interactive screens and an amazing feature.  The amazing feature is this:  if all using the time machine agree, it can move.   Along the map are several small circles denoting regions like central colorado or southwestern colorado.  The time machine works by region, so that when it is placed in central colorado it’s screens show historical artifacts, e.g. ledger books created by captive native american artists, peculiar to that location.

Near the time machine the visitor can pass through into Destination Colorado.  Through the doors is the town of Keota.  It has a school, a general store, a farm, a rural home and a tin lizzy.  In addition there is a structure called the little house on the prairie.  It has sickle moons cut out of its door.

Each one of these installations is interactive.  The store has items you can take off the shelf and buy.  Each item has a price equivalent to its price in 1920.  A cash register with mechanical keys allows a child to stand on a box and ring up tea, toothpaste, canned milk and baking powder among other things.  Ruth loved the cash register.

She also became fascinated (obsessed?) with another feature of the general store.  There were two wooden boxes with small rectangles inside, enough to hold a dozen eggs.

The eggs came from chickens set up in nest on the farm.  Every once in a while the chicken would cackle, a thunk could be heard and a small hand would reach inside the hole underneath the hen.  After retrieving a wooden egg, it goes in a small wire basket.

Once the child collects sufficient eggs they can take them back to the general store, put them in the wooden boxes one at a time and receive $.23 a dozen.  This is intermittent reinforcement, the strongest reinforcement in operant conditioning and it hooked Ruthie.

We had to stop her after she had collected buckets of eggs.

She also drove the tin lizzy which rides to Grandma’s house by way of a movie showing through the windshield, goes through rain spritzed down from a fan unit above the car and shakes and rumbles across the prairie.

Pretty fun.

Upstairs there was, drumroll please, a skiing exhibit.  Ruth jumped out of her skin at that one.  There she tried out a ski jumping simulation, crashing both times.  “That’s not what happens when I really ski,” she said.

The most impressive moment was, however, yet to come.  A mining exhibit contained another simulation, this one faux blast that required precision placement of dynamite in a particular sequence.  The small movie showed a pattern, then the pattern disappeared.  Based on that brief glimpse the explosives person had to press faux dynamite sticks into the wall in a particular sequence.  After they were in, a plunger was available to set them off.

After the plunger an explosion came on the screen and the mine told you how you did.  I watched older kids try. Their explosions caved in the mine.  6 year old Ruth went up, watched the movie, looked at the pattern, very seriously went over and pressed the dynamite then went over to the plunger and set it off.

“Excellent work, miner,” the movie said. “You brought the rock down in tunnel and did not hurt the mine shaft.”

Ruth ran between exhibits, trying this and that.  Excited.  A great trip.

Afterward we had ice cream.

arriving only as one has to go

Summer                                      New (Hiroshima) Moon

“All changes, even the most longed for, have their melancholy; for what we leave behind us is a part of ourselves; we must die to one life before we can enter another.” – Anatole France

Visiting grandchildren, Ruth and Gabe, and their parents, Jon and Jen, underline the truth of this France quote.  To leave the days of kindergarten and pre-school, to venture off even to elementary school puts us in another world than the one left behind.  Anyone who has ever become a senior in high school or college can attest to the bitter-sweet feeling of arriving only as one has to go.  Sort of like becoming a senior citizen.

Jon and Jen were shaken by the news from Aurora this morning.  The shooter lived three blocks from Montview Elementary where Jon teaches still and Jen used to teach.  They do not know yet if friends or students or former students got shot or killed, but they know it’s not only possible, but likely.

Let this serve as a reminder to us.  Often we read of these acts and shake our head.  How could he?  Then, have a cup of coffee, a final bite of bagel and get ready for the rest of the day.  But, in each of these, someone’s friend has died.  Someone’s brother or sister.  Someone’s son or daughter.  These are people loved and loving, this morning’s news for a brief window, but dead forever.

However, as the world is, we got our things together and headed into the Rocky Mountains to the small, quaint former mining town of Georgestown, drove up a windy road and parked in the Georgetown Loop Railroad parking lot.

I picked up the reserved tickets and we rode this short rail line across a photogenic trestle bridge, up threw sweet smelling pines, beside rushing mountain streams.  Perhaps predictably the adults had a great time.  Gabe spent much of the ride with his fingers in his ears.  A steam whistle.  Ruth huddled next to me off and on.  She feared falling out of the train.  It has open to the air cars which offer an immersive ride, but do not provide the safety of windows and walls.

We had pizza at Beaujo’s in Idaho Springs afterward, a Colorado sacred spot for pizza lovers and I now know why.  Get there if you’re out here.  I had the sicilian.  Wonderful.

When It’s Time to Live, Live.

Summer                                                          Under the Lily Moon

“When it’s time to die, go ahead and die, and when it’s time to live, live. Don’t sort-of-maybe live, but live like you’re going all out, like you’re not afraid.”

Sue Monk Kidd, The Secret Life of Bees

With Paul and Sarah on the road, this quote jumped out at me. (oh, toby, too) I so want to live on the very edge of my life, risking it all, trying to be the best me that I can be.

It probably doesn’t look like it from a moving to the wilds of the Maine coast position, but for me learning Latin and keeping bees put me out there, in a place no longer familiar, on lands foreign and challenging.

If I’m honest, and why wouldn’t I be, the big challenge for me is getting my work out there into the world.  It terrifies me and excites me, just not in equal measure.  The terror easily swamps the excitement.

Those of us with quiet treks, ancientrails walked alone or in private, can fall prey to adventure envy when the adventure has a physical component.  Climbing.  Skiing. Moving. I’m acquainted with this envy and envy is bad for the soul.  It diminishes the envier and the envied with a false comparison, a comparison between different journeys, neither more nor less profound or difficult.  Just different.

Traveling fills that adventure component for me, but I like returning to the familiar.  In fact, for me to walk my own ancientrail, I need a quiet home, peace during the day and a place to work.  With Kate I’ve found all these things.  A blessing in my life.

Now there’s that submitting my writing.  That’s an adventure.

An Undiscovered Country

Beltane                                                         Garlic Moon

Almost done with The Hundred Days, a novel about the last months of the Ceausescu regime in Romania.  I read it of course with my recent trip in mind, hoping to gain perspective on this country which seems so far away from the world seen from a North American perspective, invisible like Bulgaria and Montenegro.

The novel paints a bleak picture, playing up the gray monotony of the apartment blocks thrown up on the perimeter of Bucharest, like rings around Saturn the author says.  It paints, too, a picture of life under a security state, an oxymoron of stunning power.

Overall, it portrays a country torn by admiration for collective values, fear of the state’s surveillance and pushed down by material lack, a country with little confidence and little sense of itself.

Lay this image against what I saw.  Nicoleta’s town of Mihailesti has many, perhaps most, of its citizens living in what we would call severe poverty.  Yet, the emphasis seems not on lack but on abundance:  family, extended family, neighbors, the food they have–not what they don’t have.  In two evening meals and a few conversations with Nicoleta I did not learn what their dreams are, though Nicoleta clearly wants family, wants to have what she already has.

The assistant manager at the Best Western, his dream was to come to America, saw Romania as lacking, in beauty, in wonderfulness, in those things he sees in the U.S.  There were in the time of Ceausescu many who wanted to leave Romania and paid a terrible price when trying to do so, so his dream is not unusual, I imagine.

Romania is a country in need of discovery.  Its own citizens need to discover it; its intriguing and deep past; its fertile farm lands; its picturesque Carpathians; its Black Sea shore in the Slavic influenced Dobruja region.  This is a country of which a person can be proud and a place that has rich possibilities.

I’m not saying what I want to here.  I’ll try again. Later.

Air Travel. Sucks.

Beltane                                                                    Garlic Moon

Started back up on the exercise.  Gently.  I always need to ease myself back into the routine after, this time, almost two weeks off.

My mind and body have both returned to Minnesota, the fuzziness now a memory.

The truism is that we cannot remember pain and I find that true of solely physical pain.  I remember, for example, that my leg hurt like a son of a bitch after my achilles tendon repair, but I don’t recall the pain itself.  Only the event.

A different sort of pain, however, sticks with me.  That is, the hassle and discomfort of days like last Friday.  The accumulation of those, that flight back from Istanbul that also vectored through Schipol, the smaller insults that begin with booking and paying the add-on fees, that escalate with the TSA check, then the crowded planes and the uncertain take off and landing times.

You may say, this is not real pain.  And maybe it’s not.  Let’s call it aversive conditioning. What ever it is, it makes long plane rides, even shorts ones, something I will go through a great deal to avoid.  Give me a car.  A train.  A ship.  If I can make any of those work for a particular trip, I’ll take them.

Big air may have financial problems, I can’t tell the obscurantism from the truth with them, but I do know that they have consistently up priced their product while down sizing their service.  This reality of airline travel then has nested inside the airport reality of security checks and in the case of international flights, passport and custom controls.  The sum of these is an experience, at least for us coach class customers, that has little difference from self-induced and expensive torture.

What would it take to fix it?  World peace.  Wider seats.  An attention to customer needs as  opposed to airline needs.

Whatever the ultimate solution, air travel, once something I cherished, has become a sinkhole of time wasting and money covered over with active irritations.