Category Archives: Travel

An Attack of the Stupids

Spring                                                     New Bee Hiving Moon

At around 10 this morning I called home to report a serious attack of the stupids.  Kate immediately said, “You left your pillow behind.”  Smacking the forehead.  Two attacks of the stupids.

Yes, I had left my pillow behind, after all these stops.  But that wasn’t the reason I was calling.  I had set the garmin aside, reasoning that this is a trip I’ve made many, many times.  I knew the way.

So I set off toward the airport on Highway 70.  As I often do when leaving Denver, I watched the mountains recede in the rear view mirror, switched on the cruise control, stuck a new mystery novel in the cd slot and sat back for a mornings drive, headed home.

Well, sort of.  I kept waiting for the road to turn north, for the town where I often stop for lunch coming into Denver, it’s just in Colorado, not long at all after the turn south from Nebraska.

There was the sign ahead, leaving Colorado.  Ah.  Then. Oops.  Because there was the sign, welcome to Kansas. Sigh.  It’s Highway 76 that leads out of Denver toward Highway 80 in Nebraska.  70 goes through Kansas.  Oh.

I pulled out the atlas, thanks again Tom, and scouted a route north and east first through Kansas then a route east in Nebraska as I headed toward a southern dip in Highway 80.  Finally, at Lexington, Nebraska I rejoined the federal highway system.

Part of what occupied my time as I left Colorado, before I turned on the book, was thinking about the difference between the southern and western states through which I’d passed and the level plains on which I would now drive well into Minnesota.  In this thought process I was not navigating but pondering.

The arid lands beginning in Oklahoma, continuing in west Texas and southern New Mexico and into Arizona are areas which offer little in the way of useful habitation for humans.  They’re dry, with vegetation not of much use for food, and water sources distant.  When you get into the mountains of northern Arizona and New Mexico, there is more vegetation, but the soils are poor and the land often sloping and rocky.

These are areas with great natural beauty, but also severe challenges for contemporary living.  The plains, in contrast, have a beauty that is horizon and sky, fertile fields, grain elevators and small towns with white Protestant churches and brick Catholic ones.  In the plains there is a dominant occupation, farming, and, in the not so distant, a larger number of farmers.  Though the number of farmers has declined, farming still dominates the plains economy.

In the arid south and west, whether desert or mountain, there is no dominant occupation, no similar fixed anchors to an economy headed by oil and tourism and the federal government.

This was running through my head as I drove on Highway 70 headed toward Kansas instead of Nebraska.  Then I thought of our home in Andover, in Anoka county.  In the northern part of Anoka County where we live the forests and lakes, the high water table land is the southern reach of the great peat bogs that stretch right up to the beginnings of the boreal forest.

So I realized that I do not live in either the economically and resource poor south and south west, but neither do I live in the agriculturally dominant plains.  Instead I live where a different kind of economically and resource poor region begins.  If you subtract logging and mining from the lands north of us, there is only land not much good for agriculture, but rich, like the northern portions of Arizona and New Mexico in natural beauty.

Yes, I admit it.  That thinking distracted from proper navigation.

Daughter-in-law Jen got my pillow.  So all the consequences of this dreamy episode are now erased.  Do you imagine I can find Minnesota?

 

 

 

 

 

 

On the Way

Spring                                                New Bee Hiving Moon

Ruth has gone home.  Gabe has gone home.  Jon has gone home.  Jen has gone home.  The last of the trip’s intentions are now over.  All that remains is for me to go home.

Tomorrow morning, breakfast, then in the car for the next to last day.  This Ford Focus is a good car.  It’s set up well for a road trip.  I’ve gotten 35 mpg on average.

Trips have their own rhythms and this one has begun to turn toward home and away from traveling; now it’s a return.  Returns do not have the anticipation of new adventures, new sights, but they do have something better. Returns take us home.  It is only with home in mind that we can set off with confidence into the unknown. Home is the known, the safe place, the refuge.

It’s where Kate is.  Where Vega, Rigel and Gertie are.  Where the gardens and the orchard are.  Where the study is.  Where most of life happens.  I’m ready to get home.

Magical

Spring                                       Hare Moon

Several hours with granddaughter Ruth.  She asks questions from her much despised car seat while the car hums on asphalt, these old ears not able to pick up much of the high pitched chatter.  It tests my intelligence to appear to be listening.  I want to, but even the good ear doesn’t allow it.

Once in a while:  “Question.  Grandpop, have you finished your book?”  Yes, I have and its out to agents right now. “Agents.” They try to sell your book for you. “Oh.  Does it have any pictures?” Nope. “I’ve gotten really good at visualizing when I’m reading.  Question. (she actually says, question) How long is it?”  About 100,000 words.  “Is 100, 000 more than a million?”  No, it takes 10 100,000’s to make a million. “Oh.  Well, if I read your book ten times, I would get a million word medal.”

We went to the Colorado History Museum which has changed to visitor friendly exhibits.  Good for kids, a bit disappointing for me. Ruth loves to set the pattern of the dynamite in a mining demonstration, then push the plunger.  The patterns are complex and she remembers them perfectly each time.

Time with grandkids has a magical quality and I think it’s partly because the issue of mortality is so squarely and honestly on the table.  I’ll die long before Ruth and we both know that.  It gives these times together a depth and seriousness that rides below the surface of ice cream cones and bagels.

Her world is bicycles, books and imminent release from her car seat.  Mine is love, legacy and creativity.  Probably not that different in their essence.

And she wore me out.  Time for a nap.

 

 

Land of Enchantment

Spring                                                      Hare Moon

Santa Fe.  The adobe here catches the eyes, then the scent of pinyon smoke and the art galleries.  Also, the number of thin gray-haired citizens moving around with purpose, as if channeling Georgia O’Keefe.  It’s easy to imagine a chunk of this Latin influenced culture breaking off and taking root in other places.  An emphasis on beauty, use of native products and Latin American diffusion carried by sophisticated Latinos, artists, writers and outdoor enthusiasts.  Maybe as Chaco Canyon was to the pueblo cultures of the 850-1150 period.

By this time in the trip the Garmin, once unwelcome, has made me her bitch.  I hang on her every word, follow her exactly.  I think the voice model they hired might have been a dominatrix at some point.  It does take away the anxiety of navigating, especially in cities and off the main highway systems.  I like that.

When I drove from Holbrook to Gallup at 4 am yesterday, a sickle moon hung in the sky with Venus about 4 degrees away in line with the bottom point of the sickle.  It is an image that I will work with in the journal.  The pueblo people emulate the clouds, building up communities, then dissipating and moving on.  This moon hung in a clear sky and it was not difficult at all to stand with the pueblo people and the dine of the last thousand plus years and see with them the blessing.  The clouds created by the heat of the day would extend this beauty into the blue reaches of a sunlit sky.

Our kiva sees the same moon and planet, sees clouds in the day and the procession of stars at night.  Yes, our seasons are different, but plants grow in both our kivas and so do animals.  We are different, yet we are the same.

Mr. Ellis Regrets

Spring                                           Hare Moon

Just the last few things left in the room.  This “room” by the way has a kitchen and a small living room.  It’s a very comfortable way to live away from home.  I might try Residence Inns again sometime.  Not too expensive either, especially if you stack it up against a mid-priced hotel.

Been googling and looking at the EZY READ atlas Tom got me.  I don’t know why they say large print.  Doesn’t look large to me.  Chaco Canyon may, to my regret, be a road too far.  Gallup is 6 hours from here, not 4 as I figured for some reason.  That meant I could have gotten there by 9 pm MST with just 4 hours driving.  6 hours after a full workshop day is probably too much.

Haven’t decided what to do yet, but I can make Denver by Friday afternoon to surprise the birthday girl in two reasonably easy days if I skip Chaco Canyon.  I’ll still want to catch something, though I’m not sure what.  Not sure what route I’ll take either.  That will have an impact on what I can see, of course.

Anyhow as of this afternoon the trip turns north, back to the land of ice and snow.

A Rare Dining Experience

Spring                                              Hare Moon

I may have inadvertently added to the selection of Korean dishes available in Tucson.  At Takamatsu’s, a Korean-Japanese restaurant, I went in hoping for a raw beef Korean dish that is served with sesame oil over daikon with an egg yolk in the top.   The name wouldn’t come to me and I asked the waitress, a local Tucson white girl, who shook her head.  Nope, nothing like on that menu.

So, I asked her about sashimi, since I couldn’t find it on the menu either.  Yes, she said.  Right there.  It was on a long paper menu to be filled out at the table.  I checked the 10 piece sashimi dinner and waited for her return.

Instead, the owner came out.  A Korean, I think, (might have been Japanese), he said, “You’re talking about and he used a name that didn’t sound familiar to me.  Like steak tartar, in a mound with an egg yolk on top?”  That was it. “Well,” he said, “We don’t have much of a Korean community so we took off the menu 17 years ago.”  Oh, well.  I understood.  Thanks.

He went away.  Then, he came back.  “My chef says she can make it for you.  She’s the same chef we’ve had for 18 years.  She’ll take frozen rib-eye and slice it up.”  I smiled, “That sounds great.”

After my waitress brought me the usual Korean side dishes of kimchee, bean sprouts, spinace, pickled radish and thin sliced potatoes, she filled my tea pot.

She left and came back with a beautiful mound of raw beef, an egg yolk in the top, all sprinkled with sesame oil and seeds.  But on thinly sliced apple.

It was delicious.  Best I’ve ever had.

The owner came back after I’d finished. “The chef says maybe we’ll put it back on the specials menu.”  I tipped the chef.

 

Sharp, Pointy Things

Spring in the Horse Latitudes                         Hare Moon

After the workshop ended at 4:30 pm, I got in the car and headed east on Speedway, then north on Carmino Seco and after that ESE on the Old Spanish Trail.  It’s pretty curvy so it might really be an old Spanish trail.  My aim was to make the eastern chunk, the Rincon Mountain section of the Saguaro National Park, preferably before the visitor center closed.  I wanted a book or two cacti.

Missed it.  They were folding the flag when I got there, but the scenic loop, an 8 mile one way drive through a portion of the park stayed open until sunset.  I knew that and it was the other reason I went.

As the sun set, I drove slowly around the loop, stopping frequently for photographs and looking around.  This is the Sonoran desert, the driest desert in the U.S. and one of four deserts that have some portion in Arizona.  At several pull-outs I exited the car and stood looking across the valley floor where the saguaro, in their oddly human way stood embracing each other, cradling children or watching over them.  There seemed to be roughly equal distances around the big ones, as if, I thought, they had territories to defend.

There were streakies and jack rabbits with their thin erect ears.  This was evening and the critters had begun to come out for their daily life.  It cools down quickly and the contrast with the heat of late afternoon is evident.

I’m so glad to have my energy back after fighting that damned cold.  After the park I found a Mexican restaurant, not much of a feat here, and had a wonderful dinner for $13.00.  Leftovers in the fridge.

Tucson. Hot.

Spring                                                    Hare Moon

Tucson.  86 and sunny with a chance of elderly.

Yes, I felt like the northern cliche while toddling along on Highway 10.  The folks back home tell me about wintry mix and plowable snow; I’ve got sun glasses and shorts.  What would you think about a gray haired guy driving a car with Minnesota plates down here?

In the businesses I’ve been in there are a lot of frail elderly, folks bent and slow, using carts or walkers.  Not surprising, but sobering anyhow.  I wondered at one point if there’s an assumption here that if an older person is involved in an accident, that it’s their fault.  Don’t know, but it seems possible.

The American flag is prominent.  This is a redder state than the El Dorado flavored plains state red.  Both here and in Texas I get the sense these are people who want to be left alone, able to try whatever they want to make money.  Able to engage in whatever recreational pursuits they want.  With no body looking over their shoulder.

My inclination?  Let’s let’em be.

Rolling Their Own

Spring                                                          Hare Moon

One bit of local color I forgot.  Got gas in a very small town somewhere between Lubbock and Brownfield.  As I pumped the gas (hey, who remembers gas station attendants!), I noticed a metal box with a glass front door sitting in front of the convenience store.  Though it looked like a small refrigerator, smoke curled up and out of it from a vent on its side.  What the?

On closer inspection it had small panel that included this readout, meat probe temperature.  Yes, it was a small barbecue machine.  Sure enough inside they sold barbecue beef burritos, more meat, less burrito. (their sign)

Near the New Mexico Border

Spring                                                     Hare Moon

Yes, Ancientrails is has turned over the season in Seminole, Texas.  The view out of my hotel window includes an Alon truckstop with several shiny container trucks and two tall pylon signs:  McDonalds and Phillips and a blood red sun over all of them.  I’m in America.

Please see Greatwheel either later today or tomorrow for the seasonal post about spring.

Right now I’m going to catch you up on news you might have missed if you hadn’t read the Seminole Sentinel.  This is a solid newspaper with good reporting unlike the El Dorado rag from yesterday.

On the front page is coverage of an educational session for the Farm Bill.  It gives the usual view from rural America.  We needed it.  It’s too late.  But, we’re glad to have it.  Next to it is some folks who run a guar processing plant trying to get compensation for lost crops last year.

Guar? You might say.  Me, too.  Turns out it’s a legume, valued for gum arabic and its nitrogen fixation.  This is a crop so old that wikipedia says it has never been found in the wild. It was first cultivated in India.  Reminds me that the world contains so much I don’t know.  It grows in semi-arid climates and on poor soil, so it’s not a crop for the midwest.

On the editorial page under the cleverly worded Wright Words, by Dustin Wright (groan), comes this interesting news.  On Valentine’s Day in Carlsbad, New Mexico the Waste Isolation Pilot Plant reported trace amounts of americium and plutonium found above ground.  The plants monitoring and filtration system kept almost all of it from getting into the air above ground.  Wright goes on to add, “there’s still speculation about what happened below ground.”

Now, I have a good friend who is a nuclear engineer (you know who you are) and he’s convinced me that nuclear power might be a good transition method of electrical generation.  Still, these kind of events are worrisome.

Well, that’s all the news from Seminole, Texas.  At least all I’m going to convey.  Now it’s a shower, then on the road for Carlsbad Caverns.