Category Archives: Travel

Being with Those We Love

Beltane                    Waning Dyan Moon

Crowne Plaza Hotel, Indianapolis, Indiana

Family reunions.  First cousins, the forward edge of the baby boom, we hold each other in special regard.  We know the trajectory of each other’s lives.  Kenya lost her husband Ron three years ago, but now sees the world again.  Kathy, with her roots in the military, could not come today because she had a memorial for Hoosiers who’ve died in Iraq.  She’s had bariatric surgery as has Kate.

Diane, who picked us up, stood up for me at our wedding.  She’s lived in the Bay area since 1974.  A breakup with her long time partner, Jeff, still wounds her.  Richard, her brother, retired from Eli Lilly five years ago.  He has long hair, a sulky tattoo on his right upper arm and wore a Las Vegas t-shirt today.  Las Vegas, where we learn to forget.  He races harness horses.

There was little Jacob, wandering from picnic table bench to grass to his mom to Grandma Tanya.  When he tipped over forward, he found the grass as interesting as whatever he left behind in the upright world.

These are the people who know me from the long ago, those years before we learned to read, while we learned to drive and who stood with us as our parents died.

I love them; they love me.  And that is all I know on earth and all I need to know.

A train rumbles along the track outside and sounds like muffled thunder in our room.  We have been back from the reunion for a few hours.  We leave Indy tomorrow morning at 5:30 am.

Indianapolis

Beltane          Waning Dyan Moon

Hotel, Downtown Indianapolis

We got in last night on time, about 5 to 12 EST.  The station echoed with emptiness, though the attached bus station buzzed with people coming and going.  We walked down a doubled staircase.

I wanted this to be like Inverness where we got off the train from Edinburgh and walked right over to the station hotel, but in this case, though physically attached to the station there is no internal connection, so we walked out into a humid Indiana night, around the block and into the hotel.

Kate has done her results over the remote Allina website, we’ve prepared a salad and my cousin Diane is on her way to pick us up.  Back home again in Indiana.

Riding into the Mist of Memory

Beltane Full Dyan Moon

South Passenger Lounge, Union Station, Chicago, Ill. 4:00 pm 6/13/09

Kate and I left home at 10 till 7 this morning. After an on-time arrival we are here near South tracks Gate D. We board the Cardinal around 5:30 for Indianapolis.

So far Kate does not seem too worn down by the ride, although her hip has begun to bother her a bit. We met a

Interrupted in Union Station by travel demands.

Now pulling out of Lafayette, Indiana (Purdue) at 9 pm on the Cardinal. Or, is it 10:00 pm? In Indiana you can never be sure what time it is. I have a life long case of chrononemesia, never quite knowing what time it is in other parts of the world.

The trackage here, as on much of Amtrak’s routes, causes the train to sway and buckle, then settles down for a time only to bounce up again. I hope the stimulus money goes in part to better laid track and more trains.

The Cardinal is full as was the Empire Builder. It’s summer of course, always a busier time, but this is a route that usually has a lot of room. Not today.

We met a lawyer pair at dinner, a prosecutor and a law clerk for a family court judge. We talked dogs, writing and jurisprudence. I also learned that Jerry West is not considered a good guy in his home state of West Virginia. He doesn’t take care of his momma apparently. Or, should I say, allegedly.

At lunch we met Dominic, a soft spoken man from Spokane, Washington on his way to NYC. He said he sleeps in his roomette and when he wakes up he goes to eat whatever meal is availalble.

Over breakfast we met a woman from Anoka who had just completed her master’s degree in nursing. She will be a nurse practitioner, a very skilled job. Kate struck up a medical conversation which left me happily watching the Mississippi River glide by with its unglaciated ridges and valleys.

I finished a James Patterson summer read, the name of which I can’t recall right now only moments after finishing it. I’m still working my way down the list of first books I bought when I got the Kindle three weeks or so ago. It’s traveled with me to South Carolina, Georgia and Florida. Now to Indiana.

Now we roll along in the dark, past the corn and bean fields. Being here always draws down the misty days of youth, so real, yet so long ago, so well remembered yet so changed in memory. Can we ever know who we were, let alone who we are?

That boy, the one who saved his paper route money and bought a transistor radio, rides a train from his faraway home back home. The boy who fished in Pipe Creek, who played poker on school nights through high school brings another worlds memories back with him. The boy who shot out the insurance salesman’s window with his slingshot slides back into the strange world we all leave one day on the ancient trail of adulthood. It is not a two way trail, there is no going back, save in fragments.

Those fragments we recall often carry the scent of shame, a burden of grief or those too brief flashes of ectsasy. There was the time Diane Bailey pulled my pants down in front of my friends. My mother picks up the heavy phone set, listens and tears well up in her eyes. Grandpa died. There was, too, that afternoon when I sat in my room, my 33 rpm record player sending out to me for the first time the leitmotifs of the Ring. All these things and so many more, some mundane but most soaked in the incendiary flame of hot emotion float into my heart as this train, this Cardinal dives further toward Indianapolis, further into the world left long ago.

Training and Training

Beltane                    Full Dyan Moon

Pre-raphaelite training today.  I”m looking forward to it.  One of my favorite group of artists.

Kate and I leave tomorrow morning for Indiana.  The Empire Builder arrives in St. Paul at 7:50 a.m, picking us up on its way to Chicago.  In Chicago we board the Cardinal bound for Indianapolis.  An all day affair.  We will see how Kate responds to train travel.

Gators

Beltane              Waxing Dyan Moon

gatorThis southern gentleman showed up on my tour of Okefeenokee Swamp.  He hissed and opened his mouth wide. (Does that mean he’s related to Jesse Helms?) After we moved past him, he moved to another patch of grass and rolled over on his side, happy at having driven away the intruders.

The gator is the moose and the wolf of the south.  It shows up on license plates, as school mascots and in tourist ware like mugs and hot pads.

Chip, the crocodilian biologist who gave me the tour, said that the crocodilian’s basic survival strategy got put into place 30-40 million years ago and has not changed since.  They hunt the shoreline and low water edges, relying on stealth and speed to catch birds, deer, fish.

The females (you cannot tell a female from a male without opening them up) lay a large number of eggs, guard their brood and hope for the best.  It seems to work.  Think of all that time.

The Last Steam Engine

Beltane Waxing Dyan Moon

South Bend, Indiana Room 5, car 2901 at the junction of Eastern and Central Time

Outside the train with his family is a young boy I encountered about 4:00 a.m. with his head down in the toilet. He looks better now, smiling and happy to be on friendly ground.

The train carried me through western Pennsylvania and northern Ohio, brushing Lake Erie, as I slept. The sound of a train’s horn becomes a machine age lullaby, the slight rocking of the train a metal nanny rocking you to sleep. I realized on the way down that this has an older association for me. Our home on Canal Street in Alexandria, Indiana sat only a couple of blocks from the Nickel Plate Railroad’s tracks. Each night at midnight the nation’s lasting functioning steam engine came through town and sounded its horn where the tracks crossed nearby Monroe Street.

It feels good to be headed north where 70 is a more normal high during the day, not at night. The heat and traveling alone began to wear on me on the last day in Savannah. I chose a refueling option with the rental car that made it optimal to bring the car back empty. Near the time I decided to go the airport to drop off the car I began looking for a seafood place for a last lunch. None appeared. Even with the air conditioning on the heat beat against the car. Wanting to shed the responsibility I drove to the airport and by the time I got there I was hot, hungry and bit nervous about my nearly empty gas tank.

In part this was a reflection of my desire to be quit of this place and, like the young boy, to be back on friendly ground. Back now in the Midwest, riding through Indiana on the way to Chicago, I have gotten there. The train makes travel simple, so I can focus on enjoying the ride.

Cumberland Gap

Beltane Waxing Dyan Moon May 30th, toward evening

Capitol Limited, traveling through the Cumberland Gap

We passed Cumberland, West Virgina 15 minutes ago. The train stopped near the Union Rescue Mission. Nearby a man with a sleeveless t-shirt, a gut and a gray beard shrugged. Beside him a four year old boy with no shirt mimicked his shrug. Exactly.

The Cumberland Gap is a true piece of Americana, the first straightforward path through the Appalachia’s. Until its discovery the west was difficult to reach for all but the most determined. We went through a long stretch of no phone service, maybe 100 miles in western Maryland.

At supper I met a guy who works for the Bosch company. He says the company has a charitable foundation. No big news there. If it works the way he said it does, though, the reality amazes. He says each year the foundation divides up the profits. The company is wholly owned by the Bosch family. They get 2-3% of the profit. The board which helps them manage gets the same. The rest, 94% or so each year, goes to the foundation for charitable work. Last year the profit was $67,000,000,000. That’s one hell of a lot of money. Or, at least it was before the bank bail-outs.

A weird thing on the way to the metro to the Smithsonian. I saw a guy that looked a lot like my Dad. He a Red Skins hat on and a Hawai’ian style shirt, but he had the Spitler nose and Dad’s distinctive cheek bones and squarish face. He looked enough like him to make me look twice.

I forgot about him. Then,while I ate lunch at the Smithsonian Castle Cafe, he came through the hallway beside the table where I sat. This second encounter caused my imagination to leap into high gear. What if it was Dad? Why now? What would we say to each other?

There was a moment where I pushed myself all the way into that scenario. I allowed myself to imagine actually encountering my Dad father, after all these years. What would our conversation have been like? A frisson of fear shot through me. Dead Dad, after all. I realized the conversation we’d had would have been much like the one’s in life. Interesting, but somehow disengaged, distant.

It didn’t occur to me at the time, but I would have asked a question or two about the afterlife.

The train just went around a curve, still here in the Cumberland Gap. I could see our engines and the other cars ahead of us. The sleeping cars come last in the train. I imagine that cuts down on traffic in the hallways.

I’ll sign off now as the sun sinks down below the Appalachian mount just ahead of us.

Savannah Train Station

Beltane         Waxing Dyan Moon

Savannah Amtrak Station, waiting on the Silver Meteor which the stationmaster said will be 20 minutes late.

After leaving the rental car to the tender mercies of the Alamo cleaners, I took a taxi from the airport to the Amtrak station. In the process I rode on early 20th century technology to get to 19th century technology, displaced by the mid 20th century phenomenon of the commercial jet.

When I first arrived at 6:00 p.m., I had the station all to myself. The stationmaster asked how far I wanted to check “this big boy.” All the way to Minneapolis.

He gave me a new ticket folder because the trip down had crumpled the old one.

The first additional travelers to arrive were a short, squat man with brill cream slicked back hair, an Asian boy in sandals whom he treated as a son and two short pinch fenced red heads headed back to some school or the other. They were family and had, apparently long ago, mastered the art of conversations in which each of them talked at the same time. It was a peculiar experience. Like watching unfamiliar animals in their habitat.

Now there are many people in the station, that movement of people in and out of public places that finds them alternately empty and crowded, as tides of passengers or audiences or students come and go. The change is from dead to alive, a space with no buzz to a space filled with the agendas of strangers mixed together for a brief period.

It may be the relative novelty of train travel, but all this seems more human, certainly less desparate than the airport, even the small one I left earlier today.

Now there are two Amtrak employees here.

Every one stays in their small spaces, talking to those whom they know. One thing travelers do is find small spaces they can claim as their own. This space, no matter if its only a plastic seat in a crowded room, provides a refuge from the chaos of others and their unknown purposes. This is one of the chief advantages of train travel, it allows a space with real boundaries, a place you can fall asleep while traveling.

Yes, it takes longer, but the process has a definite scale to it that seems to match me. Rather than flung in the air by great jet engines, we will glide over the rails, pulled forward by hulking engines with humans at the controls, in fact riding on the engine itself.

Memory

Beltane          Waxing Dyan Moon

Acela Lounge,  Washington, D.C.

Leg two of the trip begins in about two hours, the Capitol Limited to Chicago.  This is, again, a sleeper.  The first few hours in daylight will take us through Maryland, West Virginia and into Pennsylvania.  As night comes, we’ll travel through western Pennsylvania and Ohio, reaching Chicago at 8:40 a.m. on Sunday, June 1st.

This morning I saw the Phillips collection again.  It’s strange the way memory shapes expectations.  Two falls ago I went to New York and revisited the Cloisters, once one of my favorite places.  This time it seemed smaller, less magical.  Why?  I can’t say.

The Phillips collection was the same.  Though there were a couple of Bonnards and Cezannes that drew me in, the Morris Louis paintings, especially his blue column and the Rothko room, the rest left me flat.

The D.C. metro though was as good as I recalled.  It’s clean, easy to use and reasonably priced.

I took it to the Freer where the piece that jumped out at me was Whistler’s Peacock Room.  So overdone, but at the same so cohesive and beautiful.

A meal at the Smithsonian Castle Cafe and I headed back to the station.  It’s the afternoon.  Hot.  I remembered.  Besides it’s also the time when I take a nap.  Which I plan to do right now.

The End of Masonry Forts

Beltane              Waxing Dyan Moon

Savannah Hilton Head Island International Airport

The rental car has returned to its stable, now a “dirty car” in the lingo of the rental car world.  The KIA was ok, but seemed a bit tinny to me.  Might have just been the crank windows, separately locked doors and no cruise control.

Ft. Pulawski on Cockspur Island covered the north and south shipping lanes into Savannah for the new American government, part of the Third build-out of forts to protect the east and gulf coast.

It fell into Confederate hands when the state of Georgia took it with state militia prior to its secession.

The role of Ft. Pulawski in military history is an odd one.  On April 10th, 1862 Union soldiers began a bombardment.  It used the usual smooth bore cannons and mortars largely to no affect.  There were however a few Parrot rifled cannons.  After a day of bombardment the Parrots broke down the seven foot thick masonry walls (bricks) and the next day projectiles began to strike near the powder magazine.  The Fort surrendered.

This spelled the end of masonry forts in military history.