Category Archives: Asia

A hot time in the air-conditioned nation

botanic gardensHave I mentioned that it’s hot here? Kate and I walked through the Botanic Gardens, very beautiful and close to my sister Mary’s apartment, to get to a tour bus stop. By the time we got to the right place we had soaked our t-shirts. The heat + high humidity is a challenge for both of us. And, today was cooler.

We stopped at the Botanic Gardens outdoor cafe and had cool drinks, sat under a fan. That helped. So did shopping at the excellent, and air conditioned, gift shop.

The hop-on bus tour took a couple of hours but it allowed us to see the highlights of Singapore. The bus had personalized ducts for its air conditioning. A good thing for both of us. We went down Orchard Road which is a main retail shop with vertical malls selling the same kind of luxury goods I mentioned as available in the Incheon and Hong Kong airports.

Marina ParkThe architecture is cutting edge modern with lots of angles, odd shapes, glass, polished metal and cut stone. Mary says a constant theme here is upgrading: buildings, civil engineering, education, business. The Marina Park development, which contains many whimsical modern buildings, is an example. The Singapore Flyer, a huge ferris wheel, a park set high above the street on three building towers, structures shaped like a lotus flower, a hedgehog, and an inverted whale skeleton all draw the eye.

violet-oon-singapore-bukit-timah1At the same time there is the historic part of Singapore which includes the grand Raffles Hotel, the Museum of Asian Art, China Town, the Botanic Gardens and the Peranakan neighborhood. This last reflects the particular architecture of the folks who were in Singapore the earliest. They have a beautiful ceramic tradition.

Back at the Raffles Town Club Kate and I left our things in our room and walked around the curved hallways on our floor to the Chinese restaurant. Dim sum and almond coated crispy chicken. Quite tasty.

This evening we’re going to a restaurant (picture above) that features cuisine of the Peranakan culture. Mary says the chef, Violet Oon (great name), is a local celebrity.

 

 

Kaya Toast to Bugis Street

Spring                                                                  Wedding Moon

Kaya_Toast_SetBreakfast at the Club. Kate had a British breakfast and I had kaya toast with soft boiled eggs. Kaya is a Singapore speciality, a sort of jam applied to buttered toast which is then folded or made into a sandwich. Our waiter was Katrich, a young, very dark skinned Indian. A Japanese couple ate congee, a business type snapped open his laptop after ordering and checked his phone, a large Indian man ate a large breakfast.  A quiet way to start the day.

kate on the downtown lineThen, a nap. Still pretty exhausted from yesterday’s southerly flight from Korea to near the equator. Did I mention it’s hot here? Oh, boy.

We went out to get some necessities, took the excellent subway, Stevens to Bugis and the walk from the Raffles Town Club to the Stevens station was brutal even though it was short. The subway was air conditioned. A young Chinese man tapped me on the shoulder and offered me his seat.  A moving LED sign enjoined travelers to help the children and elderly. Red seats with a campaign persona named Standup Stacey encouraged the same inside the train cars.

bugis-st-3In the way of traveling we went to Bugis Village, a “three-stories of air conditioned street shopping.” It took us over an hour, including lunch at a ramen restaurant, to find the real entrance. In that hour we both got overheated. Once we found it though it was a genuine Southeast Asian shopping experience. Stall after stall of varying goods like I Love Singapore t-shirts, plastic merlions, racks of women’s short-shorts, shoes and sandals, and the occasional food stall. Crowded, busy. Jostling. Fun.

Waiting now to go out to with Mary who has taught all day.

Singapore

Spring                                                            Wedding Moon

sinaporeSingapore. Landed at Changi airport last night around 6:45 pm after a 4 hour flight from Hong Kong. Up at 4:40 am. We’re early risers so this is not unusual, but it did make a long day. We caught the shuttle to Incheon, threaded our way through the airport lobbies and elevators, found Cathay Pacific and got our luggage and boarding passes with little hassle. All three airports are easy to navigate with the usual (outside the US) free luggage carts.

Kate was ready for bed around 5 pm. Unfortunately we had landing, immigration, baggage, customs and a taxi ride ahead of us. When I pull up Singapore weather on my cell phone, the bar across the top is a bright red. Hot! 93, feels like 100. 88, feels like 102. Those of you who know Kate will know this is not Norwegian friendly weather. The taxi ride was, for her, hot. She also gets car sick. Tired, hot, nauseated. Kate hell.

raffles town clubThe good news was that Mary, sister Mary, who lives in Singapore, has a friend who is a member of the Raffles Town Club. The Club has a floor of suites for members and guests, so Mary graciously offered to treat us to lodging there. The room, suite, is outrageous. High ceilings, a huge living room, spacious bedroom and an outsize bathroom. And, most importantly last night, it was cool. Made us feel like honored guests.

Mary also prepares a welcome kit that includes mass transit passes, maps and brochures. We’ll look at those over the course of the day. Today will be what Kate and I call a travel day. Rest and rejuvenate. Get oriented.

from the Air Conditioned nation.

Traveling

Spring                                                                   Wedding Moon

incheon to Hong KongAt Incheon Airport on our way to Honk Kong, then Singapore. This airport is phenomenal. So easy to use. Again, why, oh why, can’t the U.S. get it? We have a lot to learn from these polite, organized cultures. Of course, they could learn a few things from us, too.

We leave Korea with a certain sadness joined with great happiness. Looking forward to relaxing in Singapore.

Well. Didn’t get this sent. No internet available on the plane. Now in Hong Kong, waiting on our flight to Singapore.

Both Hong Kong and Incheon seem oriented (ha) to the luxury shopper with Bulgari, Vuitton, Ferragamo and many other upscale shops. Hardly anyplace to eat unless you want jewels or duty free liquor.

20160412_123610I’ve read stories about landing at Honk Kong, but it was smooth. You do come down right after the water. I also read Taipan awhile ago. Peaked my interested. Another trip. Maybe include that visit to Taipei. Decided against that. Too complicated after a week of wedding. Wonderful, but tiring.

Clouds cover the mountains rising up from the sea, so Hong Kong itself is shrouded though we have fifteen, twenty foot high windows at our gate area. A new bridge across the bay is under construction and its bones are visible, no roadway yet. Chinese, Malay, Caucasians, Indians and many more make one vast source of income for Cathay Pacific. Capitalism, in this sense, is a great leveler. If you have cash, you can participate.

 

And so

Spring                                                  Wedding Moon

wedding1

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Kate and Seoah’s mother after lighting the candles symbolizing the unity of the families
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The bride’s side. Her mother and sister in traditional wedding attire.

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Seoah’s father, mother and two sisters

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Fellow Air Force officers: Kevin (L) and Daniel (middle)
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Living in the present, surrounded by the past

Spring                                                         Wedding Moon

Ellis and Jang
Ellis and Jang (Mary’s photo)

Yesterday we took a trip to the past. To Seoah’s family home and the village of the Jang family for at least four generations. The neighbor women sat at a low table eating from dishes and dishes of food. They looked up curiously as we came in the small traditional house, then went back to their meal.

(Kate took all the rest of these photos.)kids

The house had little furniture, mostly low tables and one chair, a massaging recliner that Mary (my sister) says is common in Singaporean households. Often the only chair in the house.

We met many black-haired children who ran around, curious and a little uncertain, Seoah’s two sisters and her older brother. Seungpil, husband of her younger sister, has been our taxi driver in a sleek, well-maintained black Hyundai, a Grandeur.

finding conifer
finding conifer

Seoah’s mother had charge of a compliment of women in the kitchen which had food plates and bowls and pans on all of its surfaces. Her father, a trim man, 71 moved with the grace of a 30 year old. He farms a large number of plots, some vinyl greenhouses, a rice paddie and several fields. I asked to see it and we walked around it all.

He proudly pointed to a tractor and said, in clear English, “John Deere!” He had a combine, a grain drier and a second Massey-Ferguson, older. He grows vegetables, hay and some fruit. Like any good farmer in the spring, after we left his home for the Bamboo Museum, he headed back into the fields.

john deere

Seoah’s home village nestles among low mountains that look (and probably are) ancient. They’re very beautiful, often mist covered and extending in ranges for some ways. Sangkuk is well beyond the metro region of Gwangju, in the country. As nearly as I could tell, the area around Sangkuk is only agricultural, no folks living the country life and commuting into the city.

fields and tombs
Jang family fields. Note tombs in forest clearing toward the right

 

Songtan

Spring                                                                          Maiden Moon

Ancientrails posting now from Songtan, South Korea. Pics, later words. Sorry about the inverted picture. I’ll fix it later.

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Almost

Spring                                                                            Maiden Moon

The last or next to last North American post until the end of April. My laptop rests between layers of clothes in its foam sheath in the big red suitcase. Due to arthritis I’m making my carry on, a backpack, as light as possible and the laptop adds too much weight. So, I may not post anything until Korea after this one.

Nothing says I’m getting ready to go like a medical conundrum. Over the last couple of days my blood pressure has chosen to go up and down, labile. If we were staying here, I could just go in and get it dealt with on Monday. But, no way am I staying home, especially this trip. So, we’re going to have to do something today. Not sure what yet. We’ll decide when Kate gets up.

I woke up this morning wondering when Santa Claus was going to come. That’s how excited I get before a big trip. Everything’s packed, arrangements are made. All that remains is this untoward medical insult. Sigh.

 

 

The Sleep Tour: Hand Helds

Imbolc                                                                      New Maiden Moon

The post below introduces the MIA as a place I go to distract my monkey mind, to sooth myself as I try to sleep. It doesn’t sound like it should help, I know, but it does. Over various times through the collection, diverse sets of objects have presented themselves to me. This first set was a surprise, as they would not have been objects I would have used all together on a tour. I imagine that’s why they work for me. There are others and we’ll get to those eventually.

This first sleep tour emphasizes objects that would be satisfying to hold, that express their beauty through shape and material, through the finish applied. As I drift off to sleep, I imagine these objects in my hands.

 

The first object, the one that started this set, gave it a theme, is this bowl. Over 6,500 years old it comes from the Yang shao culture along the Yellow River in what is now China. The theme here is sensual, beauty of form, grace, objects that would please the hand as well as the eye. I imagine holding it, tracing its edges and its sides. I imagine it filled with corn or grapes or berries. Mostly I see it as a pleasing shape, something of the earth that gets its beauty from the clay and its maker’s skill.

bowl650

This tea cup comes from the Song Dynasty, the 12th or 13th century. It has long been my favorite object in the entire collection. “In the heat of the kiln, the natural chemicals in the leaf react with the glaze, rendering it nearly transparent.” Its aesthetic drew me in before I knew its origin. When I learned that these were favorites of Chan Buddhist monks, a movement peculiar to China that combined Taoist and Buddhist thought, it was a clue to me about my own reimagining project. Chan Buddhism became Zen when Japanese monks came to China in the 12th century and learned both about Chan Buddhism and tea drinking to stay awake during long meditation sessions.Tea Leaf tea bowl Song DynastyThis Olmec mask is 3,000 years old. The outline of a were jaguar in cinnabar lines covers the face carved from jadeite. It was once owned by the movie director John Huston.
olmec Mask

The oldest object in the museum’s collection, this image of a fertile woman, commonly called a venus figurine, has a creation date between 201 and 200 BCE, over 20,000 years ago. What I’ve always found remarkable about this object is how easy it is to tell what the artist made. We may not know precisely what it means, but that this is an image of a human woman transcends the thousands of years from its making.

Venus figurine

A Cyladic figure from either Naxos or Keros, two of the Cyclades’ Islands in the Aegean, this sculpture dates from 2,300 to 2,400 BCE. Maybe 4,400 years old. These abstract pieces share with the Venus figurine an instantly recognizable female form rendered in minimalist presentation.
cycladic figure

This birdstone was an object featured in a native American exhibition several years ago. It is an atlatl, a spear thrower. It comes from the Mississippian culture somewhere between the 26th and 25th centuries BCE.

birdstone

Corinthian helmet from 540 BCE. An elegant way to go to war, especially with the eyebrows. Seemed like it would be hot. Maybe pretty uncomfortable to wear, but that’s fashion.

corinthian helmet

Each of these are of a handheld scale, making them perfect as talismans for Morpheus. As I go through them, counting 1,2,3,4 and 5,6,7,8, they place me in a positive environment, occupy my senses and connect me to ancient artists.