Category Archives: Travel

Orientalists All Three

Back from a workout.  Slower today.  As I went out on the lanai before I headed for my aerobics, I noticed a disturbance in the calm.  A rustle of waves preceded a fluke, it fanned in the air glistening with water, then followed the great body down.  A birthday wish from an ocean mammal to a land mammal.  Mahalo.

As I walked along the ocean, I reflected a bit on the peculiar fate of my nuclear family.  Mom died early.  Dad lived several unhappy years in a marriage ill-fitted to both him and Rosemary.  Mary ended up first in Malyasia, then in Singapore, following her interest in linguistics.  Mark traveled the world from Vladivostok to Moscow, Moscow to Turkey, Turkey to Israel, then, by some route to Bangkok which he found just right.  They’ve both in Asia almost longer than I lived in Alexandria.  Though I’ve remained stateside, I have developed, quite independently of them, an interest in Asian art, cinema, literature and, of late, philosophy. 

Then, too, there is love affair with the Islands.  What is it about our lives, childhoods in the most common of Midwestern smalltowns, parents with no interest as far as I know in anything Asian, that lead us, all three, by quite different routes to turn our faces east?  It would be easy to cite the ascendance of Asia in the last two decades as a magnetic influence, but in fact all three of us have had our interests prior to those decades.

There is one thing common to all three of us, the wanderlust.  Mom was overseas during WW II and Dad found traveling significant for its own sake.  I suppose this gave us all a sense of rootlessness, or, at least, made it easy to detach ourselves from the familiar, and so opened us to the wide world.  What strange motion in the quantum sphere torqued our attention toward China, Singapore, Thailand, Japan I do not know.  But, it is a fact.

Not Just Another Day, but My Birthday in Paradise

Highway 61    valentine’s day on Maui

Spaceship earth has come again, for the 61st time, to the spot on its journey that marks the day of my birth.  This time, as at least for two others, I find myself not in the heart of North America, but, rather on the western Pacific shore of Maui.  It is a good place to celebrate a birthday. As Tom Crane pointed out in a recent comment, the ocean is the mother of us all. 

On this day she pounds the northern shores of the Islands with grim fury borne of winter storms in the Alaska/far North Pacific.  The Maui News carries warnings of high surf, dangerous conditions, news to warm the heart of every surfer  here for just these events.

The Islands give me a primal sense of being at home.  My body relaxes and this time my mind has gone along.  The willingness of my Self to sink into the warmth, the moistness, the cheerful sunniness found here give me a feel for what the womb might have been like, a place of floating in security, knowing love as physical, all-embracing.  No better present.

A Chilly Evening in Paradise

Clouds have rolled in and the temperature dropped.  Well, not too far, but enough shortsleeves chilly.  It’s night here.  The clouds over Lanai looked on one end like a crocodile (complete with eye) and on the other just like an elephant.  An omen?

Kate’s still sick.  We’re lying low, somewhat reminiscent of our first trip here during the Nagano Winter Olympics.  These two Minnesotans spent a lot of time inside, watching triple axles, double toe loops, Eddie the Eagle and slalom races.  A peculiar, but, in some strange way, apt, first time here.

Spent much of the day reading, A Secret History, by Donna Tartt.  A wonderful, odd book about classic’s students who commit two murders.

Tomorrow night we head over to Mama’s Fish House for my 61st birthday.  This is the second or third birthday I’ve celebrated here.  Feels like just the right place.

Leap Into The Next World

Sun. Ocean. Blue. Breezes. Palm trees.  Sand.  Molokai in the distance.

Aerobics this am, 7:00AM.  Walked from here at the Westin along Maui’s west shore.  At the end of the walkway headed north is the Maui Sheraton.  They have provided a historical marker, set in bronze and attached to a piece of black lava.  It explains that the lava napali (cliff) just ahead was, in the belief of the Hawai’ian people one of the places where souls jump off for the afterlife. 

The sign reminds me of the observation that developers name their work after what they removed to create it:  Fox Run, Oak Grove Estates.  Those are shameful, but when a hotel sits on land sacred even by the business owners admission, then we have moved into another category of insult.  Call it blasphemy.  Idolatry.  Worship of a false god. Call it what you will, but imagine the feeling.

It made me consider all those Catholic churches built over Celtic holywells and all the Celtic holy days sequestered by church liturgists, then absorbed into an alien creed.  The violence done to the sacred reality of another is, often, not obvious at a historical remove, but for those of us whose ancestors dressed the wells or leapt off the cliff to paradise, we remember.

At the sacred cliff I turned around and headed out on the beach.  Boy, did my heart rate climb while I hiked on wet sand. (I take along my cardio rate gear when I travel.)  The ocean has its way and I forgot that, walking down below the beaches crest.  I thought I could move fast enough to avoid the incoming surf.  Nope.  Sand laden shoes and socks now drying on the lanai.

Whales

Sun sets over Lanai.  Below our lanai a slack key guitar and vocalist play Hawaiian melodies.

Kate and I sat on our north facing lanai just 20 minutes ago and watched a pod of whales move between Molokai and Maui, then head towards Lanai.  They breached and spouted, flukes slapping the ocean when they dove.  The humpbacks come here each year during this time for mating, then they head back north.

The strangeness of the whaling imagery comes into clear relief when these behemoths play.  In fact, there is now a small industry involved in whale watching.  One way to find the whales from the balcony is to follow the whale watching boats as they head for the pods.  Which seems backward and perverse to me, somehow.

Dinner just came.  Catch of the day: ono with fruit salsa.  Thai chicken wings.  Thai coconut bisque.  Smells good. 

Bye. 

From Maui to Bangalore with Frustration

77 clear skies.  sun.  blue ocean, white surf.  sunburned tourists.  no snow here. (but, there is on the mountains)

Kate and I went down at her suggestion to the pool side bar and grill.  We sat in lounge chairs and ordered lunch.  I didn’t last long.  I don’t like the direct sun, nor do I like laying around with other folks who seem only interested in laying out in the sun.  This must be some Puritan instinct, but seeing other folks lay in the sun, drinking, then swimming, then eating and drinking and laying about pushes some kind of button.  Probably my own fear that I’m as lazy as they appear to be. 

I know.  This is vacation, right?  Well, even there, I like more active vacationing, hiking and visiting historical sites, that sort of thing.  When I got to Maui, I said to Kate that I planned to do nothing, but in the end I find it difficult.  Since I can’t drive the rental car, I can’t get to the places I’ve gone during other visits.  Not a terrible thing at all, but the option of sunning doesn’t add up to much to this northern curmudgeon.

On the bright side I got to talk to Dakesh in Bangalore about my internet connection.  This time he bypassed the hotel’s server and gave me a straight shot into the network.  Says I won’t have anymore trouble.  Hmmm.

Naptime.

Sweatshirts and Palms

Sun shines.  As it nears noon, the heat comes on, lovely after the slight, but welcome chill of the morning.  Now the palms sway a bit to gentle breezes.  The ocean reflects the sky and both send off a blue that suggests today will be fine, just fine.

A catamaran employee, a fit looking woman in her late twenties, spoke to a crowd, “We need to go with the ocean.  As it runs, we need to stay up with it.”  The crowd of pot-bellied, weather weary midwesterners nodded as if they’d understood.

Whaler’s Village had a slow start this morning.  Most shops had not opened when I wandered over there about 7:45.  The grocery store cum gift shop cum liquor store cum clothing store had its security door rolled up, so I walked in and purchased Nyquil, kleenex in the handy packs and listerine in a three ounce (TSA compatible) bottle.

Back at the hotel I had an even lighter breakfast (and, therefore, cheaper) than yesterday, which suited me just fine.  I realized a lot of my anticipation on a vacation had focused on food.  Now I have to satisfy that need in other ways.  Not to say I don’t have options:  hiking, swimming, reading, writing, shopping.

At the Honolua Surf Company I found a sweatshirt I liked, a fancy shirt for my birthday dinner on Thursday and a long sleeved t-shirt.  The apparent irony of a sweatshirt from Hawai’i has appealed to me since we first came and I have a collection.  In fact, at night and sometimes in the early morning a sweatshirt is just right. 

Clear Skies and Bright Stars

New Day in Paradise    Clear, sunny with clouds over Molokai.  Little breeze at this hour and the Pacific is calm. 

Kate’s got a cold, a version she got from some kids at work before she left.  She’ll have to rest today and tomorrow at least. 

Hard to believe I’ve only been here a day.  The jade guy I  mentioned yesterday also told me how great it was to live here.  If there were a practical way to do it, I’d jump on it. 

At night the skies are clear and the stars shine bright without the light pollution so endemic to the continental U.S.   It gets hot during the middle of the day but the morning (now) and the evenings cool down and breezes blow off the ocean. 

Gonna get back to my workout routine this morning.  Got to because this ol’ body collects aches and pains if I don’t stretch it out every day.

See you later.

Lahaina Town

Maui night  A crescent moon hangs over the Pacific. The northstar, what I think of as our own Polaris (in Minnesota) shines even here in the moist tropical dark.   Clear

Kate drove us into Lahaina Town.  I’m not on the rental car contract.  We wandered through the streets, looking into jewelry stores, art galleries, clothing stores.  A lot of people on the sidewalks, too many for my taste. 

In Whaler’s Market (they like Whaler imagery here, in spite of the darkness in the history) I met a guy who works and sells jade.  I replaced my broken jade ring and bought a spare.  The owner thought I lived on island.  We struck up a conversation.  He buys his jade by the wheelbarrow load from Burmese families who carry across the Thai border near ChingRai.  He grew up in Rangoon, his parents worked for the Ford Foundation.

By walking a block off mainstreet we escaped the crowd and found a quiet restaurant where we ate supper, macadamia nut crusted Mahi-Mahi.  At the bar a few locals bellied up to the bar,  bellowed greetings and exhibited much of the false bon’homie that drunks often think they enjoy.

Back now in room 853 at the Westin.  Both of us still have a little travel fatigue.  Should get better tomorrow.

Tommy Bahama, Reyn Spooner, Maui Dive Shop

Maui weather 80 degrees and sunny 

Ate breakfast at the hotel…not again.  Way too expensive. I knew that but I was not awake.

Wandered over to Whaler’s Village and bought a new hat, looked in the windows.  There’s a scrimshaw shop that has objects inspired by netsuke, only about twice as large.  Well done, though.  Tommy Bahama, Reyn Spooner, Island Living, Maui Dive Shop, Honolua Surf Shop. 

Noticed the palm trees around the resorts all have piton marks.  To prune these trees little guys clamber up the trunk with piton’s attached to boots and a leather belt around their waist.  The trunks have the scars.  Looks like abuse.

A lot of people here.  More than I remember from previous visits.  Not as many Japanese, though they are still here.  The frontdesk has  a Japanese language newspaper and there is a concierge for Japanese speakers. 

Kate and I are off to Lahaina Town.  There is a banyan tree there that spreads out over half a city block.

Aloha.