Meeting Luke, the Clydesdale

We had Kashi cereal and papaya for breakfast this morning.  They no longer stock the refrigerator with absurdly expensive items and wait for appetite to increase their income, so we loaded it with stuff we want.  Much better.

Outside Lihue we went into a shopping center and bought some supplies:  water, Zicam (for me) and yogurt.   Headed north we passed the airport and found Wailua where we turned mauka (toward the mountains) and headed up to Opeeka’a Falls.   We ate our yogurt there and discussed the day.  Kate decided we should head back toward Poipu beach and stop at the Gaylord Plantation.

Way over-priced.  Some nice stuff, but boy they did see us coming.  We bought nothing, but did meet Luke, a Clydesdale who was on carriage duty.  What a great animal.  Gentle, soulful, big.  He reminded me, a lot, of our Irish Wolfhounds. He’s way too big to fit in the suitcase.  Darn it.

Lunch was take-out eaten at a pavilion overlooking a long, bare expanse of Pacific.  It was high-tide so the waves lapped up further and further.  Several Bantie roosters shared the pavilion with us.  After lunch a couple of young Hawaiian girls came along and picked up the roosters who seemed to like being carried, their red-wattled heads going this way and that.

While hunting for shells, I slipped into the water and went on, only in ankle deep water.   Found a couple of gorgeous shells, a cowrie, brown with speckles, and a spiral shell with little horns along the spirals.  A bit of beach glass worn smooth by the waves and a nice piece of drift wood.  Beach combing, for some reason, can occupy me for hours on end.  I love trudging along, looking down, finding this or that.

After lunch we went to the visitor center of the National Tropical Botanical Garden, http://www.ntbg.org/ .  We will tour Allerton Gardens next Saturday.  They were the royal gardens when Hawai’i was a monarchy.   Around the visitor center are several garden beds with various local and endemic plants:  sugar cane, plumeria, bougenvillea, Sumatran cherry, banana, many palms.  Of the plants native to Hawai’i over 80% are endemic and all of these are under pressure from encroaching environmental change.   Most of the plants we associate with Hawai’i like palms, ginger, plumeria are not native and they have tended to crowd out the local species.

Tonight there is a large welcome dinner for the crowd here to study infectious diseases. I’m invited. Oh, boy. 

Later.

Sweatshirts from Hawai’i

A cool night by Kauai standards, 72.  When we drove up to Koke’e State Park, the park that includes the Waimea Canyon, the temperature dropped to 59.  With the rain it was uncomfortable.  These changes are how folks end up with so many sweatshirts from Hawai’i.

Kate and I ate dinner overlooking the 18th green of the Grand Hyatt golf courses and some dinner plate sized yellow hibiscus.  We discussed the tendency we have to want to live where we’re vacationing:  Ely, Denver, Hawai’i. It occurred to me that a large part of this sentiment comes from relaxing together and re-connecting with the love we feel for each other.  To the extent that that feeling drives our wish to live here, it means that where we already live is best.  As Emerson said, we take ourselves with us wherever we go.

Kate’s picking our itinerary for the weekend since it’s the only fully free time she has.  Tomorrow we head toward Lihue.

Chickens Liberated By Act of God

A rainy day here on Kauai.  The roosters and their flocks sought shelter under the spreading philodendron and the tall Cook pines.  Waimea Canyon, the Grand Canyon of the Pacific, hid itself in shrouds of white clouds scudding along at the 2,500 foot level.

Hanapeppe, an artist’s colony had not had time to wake up when we pulled in hunting for lunch.  We ate at Bobbie’s, a local food restaurant.  This includes lau lau pork, locomoco, lomin and various fried foods done in a style similar to, but fattier than tempura.  The androgynous cook, think muscular and broad shouldered with a cute hair do and hot pants, asked if we’d ordered enough food.  This because #8 and #9, our orders, came with a lot of food.

Hanapeppe, off Highway 50, the main and only highway headed toward Waimea Canyon, had the look of old Hawai’i, a look fondly remembered in guide books, but, since its primary ingredients seem to be rural poverty, I suspect not much missed by the locals.

The bantam roosters and hens found their liberation in the 1991 Hurricane I’niki.  The winds tore open the chicken huts and yards, freeing most of the islands population of chickens.  Now they roam everywhere.  At the Big Save in Port Allen, as I put groceries in the trunk, a rooster ran by me, headed to another place with great determination.  It surprised me.

We’ll dine tonight at Yum Cha, an Asian fusion restaurant on the golf course. 

Island Time

Sunny this AM. Warm.  Birds twittering.  Kids voices, giggles, then splashes. 

The lanai here is private and large with comfortable chairs.  A great spot to read, meditate.

Kate has two days without classes so we’re trying to figure out what to do today.  Good rest last night, we both slept till 8 AM.

I’m on island time.

A True Hotspot

Night.  Rain, steady.  “Not good when you have to mow the grass and cut the weeds,” said a Japanese maintenance person here at the Grand Hyatt Kauai. 

Kauai is another country, the oldest of the main Hawai’an Islands.   It lies furthest to the west, in roughly the path the mid-Pacific plate has crossed over the hotspot now under Kiluaea and Mauna Loa on the Big Island.

It is far from the oldest.  The trail of islands whose formation came on the hotspot stretches to the north and east.

The Hyatt, too, is another world.  It has 52 acres of resort including a PGA championship golf course, two wings of rooms and 9 restaurants plus pools, tide pools, and an archaeological excavation on the grounds.

Our lanai here faces the pools and the grounds, but does have an ocean view though nowhere near as good as the one at the Westin.  Still, there are compensations.  The Stevenson Library is a bar cum sushi bar cum jazz club.  Sounds good.

Flew here this afternoon in a twin prop plane with wings on top.  When I stood on the runway getting ready to board, I felt like I was in Casablanca.  This was two seats on either side of the middle aisle.  One stewardess and pilots who looked like they might play in high school band.  We had a flight delay because of a switch on the instrument  panel had gone out, but the captain said, “Since it belongs to the de-icing sensor, I don’t think it should impede our progress.”

More tomorrow.

Opah, Mahimahi, Ron Baton and Star Fruit

Today Molokai, across the channel, stands clear and tall, well, sort of tall.  No clouds to shroud its ancient volcanoes.  The ocean is calm and no breeze stirs the palms.  Blue, blue, blue Hawai’i.

As has happened 61 times for me, the planet has moved on in its orbit, past the spot that marks February 14th.   Today Kate and I bid aloha to Maui and aloha to Kauai.  I’ll write next from the Hyatt Resort on the south shore of Kauai.  On the 24th I’ll move to Da Fish Shack when Kate leaves for home; it’s on the north shore.

Last night Kate and I made our way to Mama’s Fish House, where, to my surprise, they now recognize us as repeat customers.  I say made our way because Kate drove and I navigated using the %$@!! navigator in my phone.  Which got us thoroughly lost.  When I drive, my inner navigator works fine, I’ve found Mama’s several times, but as a passenger I got thrown off and relying on technology didn’t help.  Sigh.

We did, however, make it.  It was Valentine’s Day so Mama’s had a full house.  The bay on which Mama’s sits is the best wind surfing in the world (or so they claim) and the waves and wind were monster yesterday.  Must of have been good.  We arrived after dark. We have seen the windsurfers, propelling themselves on surfboards fixed with sails, leaping from wave to wave.  Very balletic and colorful.

Mama’s is a polished island wood structure with walls made of drift wood and flotsam, the occasional old door and whatever struck the owner’s whimsy.  Inside, it has rattan light shades and tables covered with blue cloth decorated with white ginger leaves.  They have expanded by 100% since I’ve been there, but managed to retain the intimate South Sea ambience.

We had an Island meal of opah, mahimahi, lauau pork, seared banana, ron baton lychee nut, star fruit and a surprising fresh coconut.  Quite a birthday treat.  The waiter brought out my macadamia nut crisp with six candles, special ones Kate brought, the flames burned the color of the candle.   A happy birthday.

On the way back we ran into a road construction project that cost us 30 minutes at a time when we were both pretty sleepy.  Not fun.  Looked to me like they were laying fiber optic cable.

Final, and sad, note.  Maui has grown too much.  It is too crowded, too built up and  not as much fun.  The road construction was only the last inconvenience created by this development during our trip.  I will be glad to get to Kauai.

Aloha.

Contentment? Really?

And, once again, Sunny, Blue, Clear, Gentle Breezes.

“The heart has its reasons that reason knows nothing of.” – Blaise Pascal

A strange feeling crept up on me this morning.  Contentment.  This is not a feeling with which I have much acquaintance, so when he comes along, it is notable.  The Pascal quote is perfect here.  Reason still finds ambitions or reasons for ambitions, reason still finds competition or reasons for competition, reason finds problems to solve or reason to solve problems, but the heart, my heart, my Valentine heart says, enough.  Enough.  And, good enough.

In that spirit I spent two hours this morning wandering around, sitting down for a while and writing poetry, then over to a sunglass shop to buy a case for my sunglasses to replace the one lost in transit.  Strolling away from Whaler’s Village, I headed toward the surfers portion of Ka’anapali to watch.

Several years ago Kate and I were in Mexico City in September.  I went to the bullfight.  It was an odd experience, but the thing I want to draw attention to here is that September is when the novice bull-fighters try to prove their skill so they can move up in the ranks, to the better fights later in the season.   Watching the surfers here, on the west side of Maui, means watching the novice surfers trying to catch waves, stay on their boards, ready themselves for the 15-20 foot waves now crashing against the northern shore.

One young woman, on a blue surfboard with a white strip near the tip, tried, then tried again, and once again mounted a wave, only, each time, to have the board flop out from underneath her.  I came to admire her tenacity.  No sulking.  No quitting.  She’ll make it someday soon, I’m sure.

Now I’m back in the hotel, during what would be nap time at home and feeling just a wee bit tired.  Hope I’m not getting sick.  That would be a bummer.

Orientalists All Three

Back from a workout.  Slower today.  As I went out on the lanai before I headed for my aerobics, I noticed a disturbance in the calm.  A rustle of waves preceded a fluke, it fanned in the air glistening with water, then followed the great body down.  A birthday wish from an ocean mammal to a land mammal.  Mahalo.

As I walked along the ocean, I reflected a bit on the peculiar fate of my nuclear family.  Mom died early.  Dad lived several unhappy years in a marriage ill-fitted to both him and Rosemary.  Mary ended up first in Malyasia, then in Singapore, following her interest in linguistics.  Mark traveled the world from Vladivostok to Moscow, Moscow to Turkey, Turkey to Israel, then, by some route to Bangkok which he found just right.  They’ve both in Asia almost longer than I lived in Alexandria.  Though I’ve remained stateside, I have developed, quite independently of them, an interest in Asian art, cinema, literature and, of late, philosophy. 

Then, too, there is love affair with the Islands.  What is it about our lives, childhoods in the most common of Midwestern smalltowns, parents with no interest as far as I know in anything Asian, that lead us, all three, by quite different routes to turn our faces east?  It would be easy to cite the ascendance of Asia in the last two decades as a magnetic influence, but in fact all three of us have had our interests prior to those decades.

There is one thing common to all three of us, the wanderlust.  Mom was overseas during WW II and Dad found traveling significant for its own sake.  I suppose this gave us all a sense of rootlessness, or, at least, made it easy to detach ourselves from the familiar, and so opened us to the wide world.  What strange motion in the quantum sphere torqued our attention toward China, Singapore, Thailand, Japan I do not know.  But, it is a fact.

Not Just Another Day, but My Birthday in Paradise

Highway 61    valentine’s day on Maui

Spaceship earth has come again, for the 61st time, to the spot on its journey that marks the day of my birth.  This time, as at least for two others, I find myself not in the heart of North America, but, rather on the western Pacific shore of Maui.  It is a good place to celebrate a birthday. As Tom Crane pointed out in a recent comment, the ocean is the mother of us all. 

On this day she pounds the northern shores of the Islands with grim fury borne of winter storms in the Alaska/far North Pacific.  The Maui News carries warnings of high surf, dangerous conditions, news to warm the heart of every surfer  here for just these events.

The Islands give me a primal sense of being at home.  My body relaxes and this time my mind has gone along.  The willingness of my Self to sink into the warmth, the moistness, the cheerful sunniness found here give me a feel for what the womb might have been like, a place of floating in security, knowing love as physical, all-embracing.  No better present.

A Chilly Evening in Paradise

Clouds have rolled in and the temperature dropped.  Well, not too far, but enough shortsleeves chilly.  It’s night here.  The clouds over Lanai looked on one end like a crocodile (complete with eye) and on the other just like an elephant.  An omen?

Kate’s still sick.  We’re lying low, somewhat reminiscent of our first trip here during the Nagano Winter Olympics.  These two Minnesotans spent a lot of time inside, watching triple axles, double toe loops, Eddie the Eagle and slalom races.  A peculiar, but, in some strange way, apt, first time here.

Spent much of the day reading, A Secret History, by Donna Tartt.  A wonderful, odd book about classic’s students who commit two murders.

Tomorrow night we head over to Mama’s Fish House for my 61st birthday.  This is the second or third birthday I’ve celebrated here.  Feels like just the right place.