The Contenda

Spring                                                       Bloodroot Moon

First day, tired.  Ate.  Walked.  Got too chilly.  25 mph winds and 37 degree temps.  Came back to the Harrington after getting a sight of the US Capitol, white and domed at the far end of Pennsylvania Avenue.

When I began to scout D.C. on the web, I got on a Washington Post website that featured restaurant critiques.  It wasn’t the restaurants that caught my eye though, it was a helpful graphic the Post staff had created to help you find “the homicides in your neighborhood.”

That night I didn’t click through since I didn’t have a neighborhood, so imagine my surprise as I sat in Harriet’s, the Harrington’s restaurant and saw, on the now cliched plasma screen, “Murder by the Whitehouse.”  Sure enough, within two blocks of the restaurant and hotel somebody had shot a football player and killed him.

The Whitehouse is only a hop, skip and a drive-by from here.

Whitehouse, in fact, is the Harrington’s passcode for its wi-fi.  A  natural.

Too weary to do sight-seeing with a wind-chill I went back to my quiet room, wondering what was happening on floors 2 thru 9, and flicked through the channels, reconfirming our decision to cancel our Comcast TV.

But.  I did find a middle weight boxing match, a world championship in the WBA between Macklin, the contenda, and Felix Sturm, the champ. I haven’t watched boxing since they were sponsored by Gillette Razors and that was in the fifties, but I watched this one.

No knock-out punches, but a lot of gamy attacking by the contenda and a lot of backing up by the champ.  There was blood, some.  Shots of faces crushed by left and right hand jabs.  Uppercuts.  The occasional clinch, but mostly strategic holding up of gloves followed by flurries of punches.  Boxing seems almost quaint with mixed martial arts, Ultimate Fighting, now enjoying popularity.

The bout had a Hemingwayesque aura, perhaps a bit of the 1940’s.    The referees were all Latino one from the U.S., one from Puerto Rico and one from Spain.  They went with the German though the Irishman, Macklin, could have won it, too.  At least that’s what the announcer said.

It was Hemingway and contestants bloodying each other up and the Spanish referee that led me to bull fighting.  There is, in both boxing and bull-fighting, a suspicion that you shouldn’t really be watching.  Two adults pounding each other with their fists?  A whole raft of folks against one bull whose only way to leave the contest is dead? (Yes, there are the rare exceptions where the crowd saves the bull, but most of the time the bull dies.)

This wasn’t the I planned my first evening of this pre-Raphaelite immersion, but there you are anyhow.

Running Naked in the Halls

Spring                                             Bloodroot Moon

Cost $10 in public transportation + airfare to get to the Hotel Harrington.  $6.50 in Minnesota and $3.50 on the metro here in D.C.  Pretty slick.  Got off at the Metro Center stop which let me out a block and a half from the hotel.

The Harrington is an old darling of a hotel.  Thick paint on the woodwork, many different refreshes over the years.  A few nicks and cracks in the tile, a room that would make a monastery feel good in terms of decor.  Just right.  And in the heart of things.  The National Gallery is four blocks one way, the Whitehouse about the same in the opposite direction.

When I checked in the receptionist had handed a teacher a sheaf of papers and said, “Be sure to read that stuff to your kids.  Wait.  They’re college age, right?” They were.  “Well, then they probably know, no running naked in the halls.” I chimed in with, “You try to stop that?”

When my turn came, I did check to be sure they’d given me a quiet room.  “Yes, sir.  The 10th floor.  Quiet.”  “Good,”  I said, “I like kids, but I like them on their own floor.”

The Harrington books lots of high school and college civics and political science classes coming to see real live politicians in their natural environment.  Some will go home scarred, others will devote all their energy to getting back here.

It’s a seductive place, D.C., just as all major capitols are.  Rome in its day.  Xi’an.  Beijing.  London.  Paris.  Cairo.  Jerusalem.  There was a time…  But that was long ago.

Waitin’ on the Jet Plane

Spring                                         Bloodroot Moon

Sitting in E-1 departure gate, looking at the planes snugged up in their bays with the jetways stuck onto their sides like remora.  The day is bright, sunlight streaming down, the sun’s angle higher, spring-like.  The temperature though is January.

I missed Mark and Mary on the Skype call.  Looked for you guys and didn’t see you online.  I’ll pick you up later.

On the Northstar rail I sat with two kids, school age, who got off at the Coon Rapids station.  Never occurred to me that it was a school bus as well as a ride to work.  Makes sense.

Riding on commuter rail, then light rail, in your own town, is a different experience from using the same services in other cities.  There’s none of that residual anxiety.  Where am I?  Is this my stop?  Did I miss my stop?  Even the warehouses are familiar.

There is though a certain tinge of strangeness, of alien experience in a known land.  We’re not accustomed to whizzing past buildings on rails.  Some of us are by now, of course.  Regular riders of the Hiawatha Line and Northstar.

Still, most of us, including me, have this transportation most often in faraway places:  Chicago, New York, Washington, London, Singapore, Bangkok, Tokyo.  That creates the odd sense of being on a mode of transport familiar in foreign climes, not home, while at home.

The rail cost, $6.50, compares to $100.00 for taxi or around $50 for a shared ride.  Probably takes about the same amount of time. It also let Kate drop me off at 7:05, then return home and have breakfast only 10 minutes later.  Slick.

It feels good to on the road again.  Travel came with the bloodline and it sings a happy tune in transit.  After passing through security.