Category Archives: Mountains

Wet, Cool. Precise measurements.

Mabon                                                                    Moon of the First Snow

A wet, cool Sunday here on Shadow Mountain, the aspens dropping their yellow leaves, creating golden splashes on roads and driveways. Rain is the best fire mitigator and it comes welcome.

48 degrees and snow forecast for Wednesday, snow showers only, but hey, snow!

We went over to Evergreen for our business meeting. When we got back, the garage was calling to me. Moved things here and there, organizing, creating space for bookshelves removed from up here. They’ll hold my journals. Some of the ikea shelving from the old office will hold bankers boxes that don’t stay up in the loft. Another two hours or so of work down there.

This afternoon we bought new cabinets for the kitchen and picked out a quartz countertop, finished up design elements. Main goal, increase storage and create better lighting, update the appliances. We bought scratch and dent appliances, saving literally thousands of dollars, accepting a few dings in return for smaller cash outlay.

Our remodeler is here right now, making final, precise measurements.

Verticality and Aridity.

Mabon                                                                          Moon of the First Snow

Bull with water lilyWhen I went into Evergreen yesterday, just after turning off Brook Forest Drive I went past a house that had a bull elk and his harem resting in their front yard, maybe 15 does. A stream runs between the highway and this house. The trees gave shade from the brutal morning sun. A domestic scene with wild animals. It came to my attention when a large bulk moving caught my peripheral vision. That’s the paleolithic helping in the here and now.

It amuses me, when I go to Evergreen, to see the number of people who gather at the lake. All these wonderful mountains and the locals come to look at the water. I imagine only a former native of a water rich state would notice the irony.

muledeer2600Vertical and flat. Humid and arid. Those are the big differences between our new home and our old one. Here I drive through canyons, over high passes, around stands of rock with the view often limited to a few hundred feet on either side, sometimes less than that. When we leave Conifer and go into Denver though, we immediately return to the far horizons common to the midwest. We frequently transit between the great plains and the mountain west, living as we do in the borderlands between the two.

Though we have had a wet summer and somewhat wet fall, when the rains cease, things dry out fast. We can go from low fire danger to high in a day. That’s why fire mitigation is constantly on my mind.

Black Mountain
Black Mountain

When verticality and aridity intersect, as they do at 8,800 feet and above, a genuinely unfamiliar biosphere is the result. Unfamiliar to those from the rainy flatlands of middle America, that is.  On Shadow Mountain we have two trees: lodgepole and aspen. Along streams there are more species of tree and shrub and there are microclimates that might support greater diversity, but on the bulk of the land that can grow anything, lodgepole and aspen. There are grasses, flowers, a few shrubs as understory, but just as often the rocky ground is bare. The mountains have strict limitations for plants.

The plant limits determine the fauna, too. Grass eaters like mule deer and elk do well, as do predators who eat them. There are small mammals that are prey for foxes and coyotes, but there are surprisingly few insects. That limits the birds. We have raven, crow, Canada and blue jays, the occasional robin, birds of prey that feed off food similar to that preferred by foxes and coyotes and other game birds. There are, as well, black bears. We’ve seen all of these save the bear.

Still learning about the mountains. Will not stop.

 

 

 

Mabon                                                                           Moon of the First Snow

First fire.

I now routinely take Turkey Creek Canyon Road to Deer Creek Canyon Road as a preferred route to medical services, most located in and around Littleton, a southern ‘burb of Denver. That meant I missed the road closure on Highway 470, the half ring road that defines the western boundary of the Denver metro area.

470 follows the Front Range starting at I-70, the main route into and through the Rockies going west. About 10 miles south from that point, on the way toward Colorado Springs, the old mountain range that preceded the Rockies creates an upslope that runs maybe 800 feet at a gentle slope from the highway and ends in a ridge of rock that resembles the jagged back of a stegosaurus, Colorado’s state fossil. Bowles Road intersects 470 there.

A helicopter caught my eye as I turned off Santa Fe onto 470 toward Bowles. A news helicopter?

It had a very long cable dangling beneath it with an orange looking pod suspended at the very bottom.  Then, the pod opened and a brief spray of water fell toward the earth. Oh.

Okinawa Sushi, a favorite lunch stop is at the Ken Caryl exit, just one before Bowles and when pulling into the parking lot, I saw people standing, looking skyward toward the highway. More helicopters.

After lunch I saw the reason for all this. It was a grass fire that had run from the highway all the way up to the bony ridge of the first elevation. The ground was black in a 33 acre scar. 470 had only one lane open there with several fire trucks, police and other emergency vehicles parked in the other lane and up closer to the fire.

Another helicopter came chop, chop, chop over the ridge, an orange bucket again dangling below. It maneuvered into place and hung there for a bit, presumably awaiting instructions from the ground. Finally, again it released the water which fell onto a scrubby patch of land outside the burned perimeter. When the water hit, spray and smoke billowed up.

Since we moved here last December, the fire danger has been low with a few exceptions. Lots of rain, an anomaly of a year. This was my first exposure to the reality of wildfire. Good motivation for cutting down all those trees. And a reminder of the true nature of our new home.

 

 

 

Moon Rock and Baby Mountains

Mabon                                                                       First Snow Moon

Friend Tom Crane sent me a package the other day. It had the familiar Amazon prime tape across it, so I didn’t check the sender. I just opened it. The first thing I saw was a blue nalgene water bottle. Filled with water. What? I ordered water from Amazon?

It was a heavy package for its size, 10# was written on the front. In bubble wrap I found two large chunks of rock, samples Tom had collected near Carleton Peak, east of the Temperance River. It’s anorthosite, he says in the accompanying note, which also identified the water as Lake Superior water.

Knowing me well, he said I’d look up anorthosite. Here’s the first thing I found:

Anorthosite /ænˈɔrθəsaɪt/ is a phaneritic, intrusive igneous rock characterized by a predominance of plagioclase feldspar (90–100%), and a minimal mafic component (0–10%). Pyroxene, ilmenite, magnetite, and olivine are the mafic minerals most commonly present.

Who needs to go further after a description like that?

Phaneritic means it has large, identifiable matrix grains. “This texture forms by the slow cooling of magma deep underground in the plutonic environment.”  wiki

“Mafic is an adjective describing a silicate mineral or rock that is rich in magnesium and iron, and hence is a contraction of “magnesium” and “ferric”. Most mafic minerals are dark in color, and common rock-forming mafic minerals include olivine, pyroxene, amphibole, and biotite.” wiki

“The Plagioclase series is a group of related feldspar minerals that essentially have the same formula but vary in their percentage of sodium and calcium.”  www.minerals.net

The most interesting thing I learned while looking up Anorthosite is that the highlands of the moon seem to be anorthosite, too. So the ancient Sawtooths, volcanoes of the midcontinent rift which pulled the North American landmass apart in precambrian times, created rock similar to that found on the moon.

Tom and Paul Strickland at the Ely greenstone site in Ely, Minnesota
Tom and Paul Strickland at the Ely greenstone site in Ely, Minnesota

It’s odd to consider but mountain ranges like the Sawtooths and the Appalachians, ground down by millions, even a billion, years of erosion, were once like the relatively young Rocky Mountains. So here on Shadow Mountain we are in, or rather on, a recent geological event compared to the precambrian era of the Sawtooths. In the Precambrian era life evolved and during its entire millions of years there were only animals with no hard parts.

To walk the shore of Lake Superior, in other words, is to walk on a truly ancient landform. The Canadian Shield, which exposes some of oldest rock on earth, underlies much of Minnesota, from the oldest deposits, gneiss in the Minnesota River Valley like near Morton, to the Ely greenstone found in the town of Ely.

On Shadow Mountain, by contrast, we live on evidence of the Laramide orogeny, (mountain building), only 85-55 million years ago.

Final Days. Get It While It’s Hot.

Mabon                                                                      Elk Rut Moon

house400The final days of the Elk Rut moon are gorgeous, sunny ones. The aspen trees with their leaves still on the tree, lower down from us, blaze like magic lanterns, yellow-gold against deep green. The yellow-gold has faded to a tannish yellow on Shadow Mountain where the leaves remain. Black Mountain, which had yellow gold streaks in its green hair much like grand-daughter Ruth’s pink ones,  has bald spots sprinkled here and there with darkish browns, a mountain’s equivalent of gray hair.

A certain laziness comes with the sun’s shine as it sinks lower, rising less and less each day above the ecliptic. This light seems to offer a going out of business sale for warmth. Get it while you can. Don’t waste time. Bask now or be forever chill.

Since we live on a mountain road that connects two towns and provides entry points to the Arapaho National Forest, we get different traffic on the weekend. Often it’s bicyclists, sometimes in large groups. Today it was motorcyclists, buzzing by like formula one cars, riders leaning for the curve that begins where Black Mountain Drive turns into Shadow Mountain Drive. Oddly, I find these weekend events soothing. People want to come where we live. Of course, we also get the family car with a Thule carrier on top, bicycles lashed to a carrier on back, a dog with its head out the window.

Kate’s recovering nicely so far, the pain tamped down by Vicodin and ice. I made a pot of chicken noodle soup this morning. We’re at the beginning of a long trail for her.

We Share the Mountains

Mabon                                                                Elk Rut Moon

One of the joys of living in the mountains is the unexpected appearance of wildlife. The Lakeshore Cafe, where we go for our business meetings on Sunday morning, sits across Upper Bearcreek Drive from Evergreen Lake. This morning there was a harem of elk with two bulls drinking, swimming in the lake and wandering the marshy area. At our initial pass a multi-point buck was striding across a pedestrian bridge, a picture I wish I could have taken, but traffic behind me prevented it.

When we turned into the Lakeshore’s parking lot, Kate suggested I park and go take some photos. Here are a few:

Bull with water lilyBull and doesBull with water lily2 Bull Elk after swim

A Mountain Autumnal Equinox 2015

Mabon                                                                     Elk Rut Moon

We are deep into a short and subtle season, the mountain fall. Today’s equinox, the autumnal, is not so relevant here on Shadow Mountain as the second harvest holiday. It finds no fields of corn, wheat, beans ready for reaping.

This does not mean Mabon, the pagan season between Lughnasa and Samhain, the other two harvest holidays, is not distinctive. Hardly. The early signal, as it is everywhere in temperate latitudes, is the changing of the sun’s angle as it descends from its northern zenith toward its southern nadir reached on the winter solstice. At some point in August, usually mid-August, the change in the sun’s position becomes noticeable and kicks up in memory high school football, back to school, leaves changing color, temperatures cooling. This is a nuanced moment, easily missed if life is too busy.

By Labor Day the new season accelerates with the temperatures actually cooler, back to school ads in the Sunday paper and, here in the mountains, the first brief flashes of gold. But the colors never broaden their palette. The fall signal is gold amongst the green. Right here on Conifer, Black and Shadow Mountains, the mountains we see everyday, the aspen groves are small and convert only patches of mountainside, but the effect is startling. What have been all summer ziggurats of green, uniform up and down, now are decorated like Christmas trees, one of those flocked trees with only gold ornaments.

The meadows tucked into canyons and valleys are a beautiful straw color, topped sometimes with a reddish furze. The season of desiccation, ignored by the dominant lodgepole pines, happens, though its reach is not nearly total, as it mostly is in the deciduous forest lands of the midwest.

The animals. Here the equivalent of the blazing colors of maples and oaks is the elk rut. Architectural wonders, the horns of mature bull elks, wander the mountains perched atop their owners, looking for does. Combat is an ancient, ancient sport here. And, like the medieval tournaments, it is for the hand of the lady. If they had them, the does would probably hand out colorful handkerchiefs and scarves for the bulls to carry into battle.

The mule deer shed their velvet in October, so during the elk rut, most of it, they still carry the moist, blood-rich covering that feeds antler growth.

Black bears are in the midst of a caloric imperative, their large bodies demanding upwards of 20,000 calories a day to insure they survive hibernation. That means constant searching for food and any disruption in their usual fall supplies of berries and nuts and honey finds them trolling residential areas in the Front Range or down into the Denver metro area. So another sign of fall are the reports of bear home and vehicle invasions.

Breathless anticipation of snow also begins to dominate the news. A couple of inches in Rocky Mountain National Park last week got several photographs on Open Snow, a forecast website devoted solely to snow and, in particular, snow where it can be skied.

Winter does not loom as the incipient oppressor as it does in Minnesota. It’s foreseen with anticipation, like the holidays. Winter is a fourth outdoor season here. An often repeated quote, an advertising slogan probably, is this: There’s no such thing as bad weather, only bad gear.

So fall in the mountains is not the climactic end to a long growing season. No filled silos or grain elevators. Instead it is the time between the heat and flourishing of summer and the cold, snowy time occupied by hibernation on the one hand and bombing down the mountains on the other.

Lughnasa                                                                  Elk Rut Moon

black mountain gold300Gold is in the hills and mountains. Black mountain has a streak of gold running to its peak, like punk rocker with a taste for precious metal. The temperature has dropped. It was 46 when I got up this morning and will get to 39 tonight. Fall has arrived. Our realtor said fall in the mountains is brief and doesn’t have the variation in color of a Minnesota, but “…has its own beauty.” She’s right.

(Black Mountain Gold. Taken from loft balcony.)

This is a minimalist color change. One tree, the aspen, goes from green, making it blend it with its conifer neighbors, to gold, making it complement them. The effect is stylish. You might expect those blocky black leather couches and chairs set out to view the green and gold mountainscapes.

 

Rock and Chain

Lughnasa                                                                            Labor Day Moon

While Kate’s at BJ’s place near Tetonia, Idaho, I’ve been working my way through a list of things to get done: installing uninterruptible power supplies to smooth out our occasional micro-outages, mowing the fuel in the front, upgrading the desktop and the laptop to windows 10 and trying to make work the bright idea I had for stabilizing our mailbox.

original plan400

This was the original plan. Chains and a rock. Problems were two. Making the chains stay in place proved harder than I imagined and the rock I chose was too damn heavy. So.

Plan #2

weight400

This is a version of the idea I had, though more poorly executed than I want. Still, it’s proof of concept. It has so much chain because I bought the chain lengths for the larger rock. Also, I wanted black chain, but the two sources I had close by, Big R and the Ace Hardware, only had silver.

It’s not terrible. We’ll see whether it can keep the mailbox at a stable height while retaining the virtue of its original design. It swings to the side if a snow plow hits it, rather than sheering off at the base.

weightfornow2400

 

They Say It’s Her Birthday

Lughnasa                                                                       Labor Day Moon

Rebekah Johnson
Rebekah Johnson

Kate leaves tomorrow for Driggs, Idaho. Her sister, BJ, and her long time s.o., Schecky, have bought a house outside Driggs. BJ’s living there this summer while she plays violin at the Grand Tetons Classical Music Festival in Jackson Hole, a short drive away in Wyoming. She’s played this festival for several years. Schecky and BJ currently live in the Beacon Hotel on Broadway in NYC, not far from Juilliard and Lincoln Center where they met. They’ve lived in the Beacon their entire professional lives. Rent control.

Driggs, then, will be quite a downshift in terms of people and energy. Schecky is originally from the west and they’ve both done extensive backpacking. He plays the cello and has a solo career in Europe and Japan. In the U.S. he plays for the New York City Ballet and the New York Symphony.

BJ turns 60 on the 8th, so this is a birthday trip, but a quick one, since I’m leaving Wednesday for Indiana. With the dogs it’s difficult for Kate and me to travel together on these shorter journeys. Since we bought the Rav4, we’ve only had one car, so we rent from Enterprise and leave the Rav4 for whoever’s at home.

Kate’s taking her featherweight sewing machine and will help BJ with window treatments. She made her chili and cornbread for me yesterday, as well as a peach pie from Colorado Palisade peaches which are now in season.