Category Archives: Travel

Rant about State Security

Fall                                                                   Samhain Moon

Bon Aire, Ga.  Up early yesterday to make the US Airways flights from Minneapolis to Atlanta.  Unremarkable except for a TSA officer in the jetway in Charlotte while loading for the Atlanta flight. Travel brings out an ornery side of me, well, air travel.  So, when I got to the TSA officer I said (something it would be better to have said in my head), “Just another way to make travel annoying?”  He said, “Another layer of security. And I’m doing it for free.”  Me, (again something better kept in my head), “I don’t care.”

Might not have been so vocal but I’ve been reading Dave Eggers new book, The Circle.  This is a thinly disguised critique of Google and online culture.  In particular it attacks the insistent need for transparency, for personal knowledge spread out over the web and instantly available for all.  It cranked up my already strong sense of personal privacy, created in part by my introverted nature but also by my political stance far to the left of the norm.  I’d also had my first taste of Foucault in the last week which, like the Eggers, lays bare the unintended consequences of otherwise well meaning systems.

In the instance of airport security for example I realized we have been trained for submission as we line up passively, wait for someone to check our tickets and i.d.  We then take off clothing, even our belts, allow our bodies to be probed by x-ray and agree to be judged by ill trained, low paid TSA personnel.

This is, ironically, an antidote for the toxin of terrorism. Those who would take our liberty have, through the judo of fear, managed to convince us to take our liberty away through our on own efforts.  Security, in exactly the degree to which we apply it, reduces our freedom and reinforces fear.

Training for submission is the opposite of democracy, yet it seems to appear everywhere these days.  The NSA debate now swirling has a large component of I don’t care if they watch. Well, I care.  I care because they care to sweep my data up.  Like the TSA the expectation is that we will embrace this is training in submission to those who know better than we do.  Well, I don’t think they know better and I’m not willing to share my data unasked and with no safeguards other than “Trust us.”

Anyhow.

Plato

Fall                                                                    Harvest Moon

Kate and I drove out to Plato, Minnesota today.  Picked up broadcast fertilizer for both the vegetable garden and the orchard, plus the concentrated liquids for sprays and drenches. The broadcast fertilizer goes down now, worked into the soil.  Tomorrow.  The rest will be next year, including the nitrogen in the vegetable garden.  Different vegetables, different sorts of nitrogen.

Luke has a building up on the concrete slab Bill and I saw when we were out there in June.  He’s running a small business right now from a crumbling concrete block building. It’s stacked full of barrels and bins, weights and mixing apparatus.  A bare bones operation.  He mails all over the U.S. from Plato.

They missed a shot there in Plato.  Should have Aristotle Avenue, Diogenes Boulevard, Zeno and Anaxamander and Thales Streets.  But no.  Main Street.  2nd. 3rd. Coulda been good.

The fields of corn are dry, most not harvested though there was a cleared field or two.  Orange and green in the landscape.  There were, too, shallow lakes with wind rippled water, a bright deep blue, one with an egret pointing toward the west, white on blue, beautiful.

It takes an hour plus to get to Plato from Andover, a journey from the northern ex-burbs to the far south-western boundary of the metro area.  Each time I hop in the car, drive to someplace like Plato to pick up something, I remember how far away Indianapolis was from Alexandria.  Less than 60 miles.  Planning involved.  Rarely if never done.  Now, to pick up some fertilizer we get in the car and drive further than a trip to Indianapolis.  Because, you see, it’s all part of our area.  Our metropolis.  Our urbanized region.  Strange.

Human Trafficking

Summer                                                             Moon of the First Harvests

9 years ago this November I went on a significant trip paid for by money inherited from my father.  It took me to Singapore where my sister, Mary, hosted me and showed me her adopted city.  After Singapore I flew Tiger Airlines to Bangkok where I spent 5 days getting acclimated to Thai culture and the particular culture of Bangkok’s China Town. My hotel there cost $17.00 a night.

(Yaowarat Road.  Bangkok’s China Town)

On the 6th day I took a flight from Bangkok’s old airport on Bangkok Air to Siem Reap, Cambodia.  We landed late at night and the customs area looked like a prison detainee facility in a bad B-movie.  At one box I applied for my visa and at one right next to it, a Cambodian official stamped in it and I was in country.

The taxi scrum had all kinds of vehicles and people, but I happened, quite by accident, on a wonderful driver, Mr. Rit.  He drove me around for the entire time I was in Siem Reap, including several trips out to Angkor, the ancient Khmer region where over 75 different temples built by many different rulers dot the landscape, among them what westerner’s call Angkor Wat, which actually means, Angkor Temple.

(Siem Reap)

Tonight I watched a movie called Trade of Innocents.  It’s a Netflix streaming movie, so it’s easily available.  The focus is human trafficking, based on real events, in the city Siem Reap.  This lovely city, deep in the Cambodian jungle, has what I guess you could say is the misfortune of being the gateway to Angkor.  As such, it has seen a hotel building boom of enormous proportions, making it possible to stay in Siem Reap at almost any price point.  My hotel was $25 a night for a room with teak furniture and a tiled complete bath.  You could pay then $500 a night at Hotel D’Angkor, the old French colonial hotel of ridiculous elegance.

(Bayon Temple.)

All this tourist traffic has apparently made Siem Reap a center for the trade in Cambodian and Vietnamese girls.  The problem gets reinforced by a culturally acceptable practice of sending a daughter into the city brothels to support her family.  This was a side of Siem Reap that was invisible to me.  I saw a small city with contradictions between rich and poor, with beautiful buildings and a friendly people, with local artisans of incredible skill, but I didn’t see the backrooms and back alleys where children, young children, were bartered and rented for an evening.

My friends Paul and Sarah Strickland have made the trafficking of girls a priority issue.  It’s easy to see why.  Girl Rising, the movie Kate and I saw earlier this month, also pleads the case for girls, a vulnerable population everywhere, vulnerable not only to human trafficking but to enforced ignorance, too.  If you have a daughter, or a granddaughter, or if you love a woman who was a daughter once, then these two movies should make you pause a moment.  And wonder how to help.

Coming Up From the Deep

Summer                                                                                   Solstice Moon

In the decompression zone.  Visits from family, any family, are occasions for renewal of ties and creation of new memories.  Further sticky material for the mysterious field that defines often faraway people as belonging to each other.  Both Mark and the Denver Olsons were here this last week.  Now they’re both gone.

Introverts like Kate and I have a doubled experience each time.  That is, we greet visitors and embrace them, eager to hear the latest news and have some new experiences together; but, too, we find our quiet and our routine disrupted.  Even our physical space.  That creates a tension, overlaid by the unusual such as cooking for 8, getting a driver’s license test, building bonfires, navigating to new destinations.

That means leave taking has a doubled sense, too.  Sadness at good-bye, but also relief as the quiet returns and the day’s rhythms return to their norm.  Of course, feeling relief when loved ones go can generate guilt, but for introverts that guilt has to be parsed with the knife of one’s true nature.  Sadness is just that, sadness.  And relief, well, that just means we are who we are.

Travel Memories

Summer                                                                                      Solstice Moon

Funny how events that happen during a visit, often outside the particular place visited, shape memories.  Last night Jon, Jen, Ruth and Gabe were in Minneapolis when a riptide of lightning pulled heavy rain in its tow.  Jon said, “I knew if I could get to Columbia Heights, we’d be ok.”  They saw manhole covers burst up and forded one high spot, but managed to get back to our merely soggy home about 9:30 pm.

On a visit to Denver a year ago right now, James Holmes shot up a theater full of late night movie goers watching Batman:  The Dark Knight Rises.  This was in Aurora, not far from where my hotel and Jon and Jen’s home.  They teach in the Aurora school district, so the event hit them hard.

Back in 1968 I tried, briefly, to move to New York City.  Stymied by uncertain draft status I couldn’t find work.  But, I was there for Bobby Kennedy’s funeral held at St. Patrick’s Cathedral.  Another trip a year earlier found me in Toronto during the time of what would become a historic John Cage concert, which I accidentally attended.

 

 

Family. Gathering.

Summer                                                                            Solstice Moon

Little feet pounding up and down the hallway.  Non-residents in the steam bath.  A dining

table set for six.  Cartoons on the tv.  Visitors coming to visit the visitors.  A storm of energy.  Talk about extravagance.

Rigel, our most wolfhound-like dog, likes to go into the entry passage between the garage and the kitchen to lie down.  It’s her safe place when thunderstorms approach.  She was back there last night and Gabe, 5 years old, looked at her and said to me, “Your dog is lonely.”

Gabe is all frenetic energy.  Running, opening, closing, activating electronic devices of all kinds, carrying this from here to there.  Banging on the piano.  (right now in fact) Switching his interests like mercury contacting an electrical lead.  He has mosquito bites, all swollen a bit more than I would find normal, probably due to his hemophilia.  When he came, three sacks filled with factor came with him and went into the downstairs refrigerator.  The factor adds back the clotting factors he’s missing in his clotting cascade.

Ruth has her energetic side, too.  She’s 7 after all.  But she said to me, “I read all the time.” She also recognizes onomatopoeia, alliteration, negative numbers and has a shy eagerness about learning.  We also watched her bowl a 195 on the Wii, then proceed to win a tennis match.  Her small body flows with grace.  In addition, and perhaps most tellingly for her future, she designs.  Dresses.  Which grandma then makes.  Her flare for color and shape surprises me.

Her parents are friends of mine.  We talk, often like college students, late into the night.  Jon and I dissected the American political economy last night.  Jen and I discussed the strange relational behavior of her psychiatrist uncle.  They’re teachers, Jen elementary and Jon art for elementary kids.  This is serious work, formative for our future, and yet also frustrating with high stakes tests and the reality of working with Latino and African-American kids coming from poor homes.

Mark, too, is still here.  He passed his driver’s license test yesterday and now will sport a Minnesota driver’s license as he travels the world.  His money is here as well.  So, in some defining ways, Mark has become a Minnesotan though he describes himself a warm weather guy, having spent most of the last 20 + years in either Thailand or Saudi Arabia.

As often happens when family gathers, I find myself wishing we were closer together.  When I grew up, my whole extended family on my mother’s side lived within a radius of 40 miles.  This allowed constant interaction that kept family life rich, but, also mundane, ordinary.  Now, it happens in these episodic bursts, the Stock Show in Denver, the occasional visit here, other times in Denver.  Mark and Mary come from time to time.

These infrequent family visits, supplemented in a powerful way by Skype and Facetime, represent the new reality for many.  I don’t know whether it’s better or worse, but it is different from the way I grew up, though I suppose I should add that my Dad’s family was spread around: Oklahoma, Texas, Louisiana and Georgia.

 

House Guests

Beltane                                                                                   Solstice Moon

The grand kids have arrived.  With their parents in tow.  We have a playhouse for them that we put in the woods at the same time we put in the orchard.  Now, just outside the area of the playhouse, we have the new fire pit.

Tomorrow night we’re going to have an inaugural solstice bonfire.  We plan bonfires on the two solstices and on Beltane and Samhain.  I hope these can begin to be gathering moments for folks interested in celebrating these turning points of the Great Wheel.  Stay tuned for more about these events. We’re going to test the bonfire concept tomorrow night on the grand kids, after that, y’all come.

This family has been on the road since last Friday, driving from Denver to Chicago, then north across the Mackinac Bridge into the U.P., across the U.P. to the Brule for a night, then here this afternoon.  That’s a lot of time in the car for four people.  Exhausting might not even cover it.

Good to have them here, building memories.  We get out there quite a bit, but it’s nice to have them here, too.

Ex-Pats

Beltane                                                                           Solstice Moon

The two ex-pats nodded knowingly at each other as they discussed returning to the U.S. for visits from their home’s abroad.  Mark said, “Yes, I walk down the hall at the motel and people move aside.”  Mary said, “Yes, I now what you mean exactly.”  Mark continued, “It’s the nuances.  I understand the signs here.  I don’t have to communicate with sign language.”  Again Mary agreed, but added, “Still, when I come back, there are also things that are strange.”  She talked about a time when she needed to call me to tell she had gotten delayed, but could no longer find a pay phone.  But they both agreed, Mary from Singapore and Mark from his motel in Coon Rapids, that there was a feeling of comfort at being in the home culture.

Mary says the pollution in Singapore is bad enough to make breathing difficult.  Loggers in Indonesia burn the forests, then the smoke crosses the Straits to reach this fortunately air-conditioned nation.  When Singaporeans and Malaysians complain  to Indonesia, the Indonesians point that the companies which own the forests and do the clear cutting and burning are owned by Malaysians and Singaporeans.  Meanwhile, many people wear masks or stay inside.  With little wind during the hot summer months it’s unclear how long this pollution will be around.  It began last Friday.

(Singapore yesterday)

Mary also reports that dengue fever, also known as bone break fever, has infected 10,000 already this year as opposed to 5,000 last year.  This has lead officials to declare dengue hot spots, marked with red circles, in which there have been ten or more cases.  In those hot spots mosquito control will come into your home and check for mosquitoes.  We know about mosquitoes, but not dengue fever, though West Nile virus is here.

(sand storm, Riyadh)

In response to a question Mark said that sand storms create similar problems to the haze in Singapore, with respiratory illnesses increasing.

The ex-pat life.

The Shoulder

Beltane                                                                                            Solstice Moon

Finished my p.t. visits for the shoulder.  When asked at this point what he thought caused this pain, “Rust.  Or, dry rot.” David Poulter said.  In this case some form of cervical impingement and possibly a rotator cuff tear.  On the likelihood of its return.  “If you keep up the resistance work, you’ll minimize it.”  But.  Since it is rust, the probability is that something, if not the exact same thing will happen again.  Hopefully not for awhile.

David also said that I had gotten in three weeks the amount of improvement it takes most folks to get in three months.  That made me feel good because it speaks well of my body’s continuing capacity to heal itself.  The key in this case apparently is steady work.  Which I’ve been doing.  I don’t like pain, but am willing to endure it to put it behind me.

David is an interesting guy.  His brother lives in Brittany and the time trials for the Tour de France are in Mont St. Michel this year, so he’s packing up and moving to Brittany for four months. He’s 54, born in Lancastershire, moved to Australia, then New Zealand and eighteen years ago to the U.S.  His sport is cycling so he’s going to ride the 35 miles to the time trials and generally hang out as a cyclist, a Brit who speaks bon francais, but who has a desire to become fluent.

Of course, Brittany is that oddity, the Celtic part of France, speaking a native tongue closest to Cornish.  David told me that Great Britain comes from the island, Britain, plus the little Britain, Brittany.  Further, that the French/English animosity comes from the Roman, then the Saxon, then the French invasions which pushed the native Britons (the Celts) into the peripheral countries of Ireland, Wales, Scotland, Cornwall, the Isle of Mann and Brittany.

(Brittany in dark blue.)