Savannah–Creek for Marsh Grass

Beltane            Waning Flower Moon

The Gray Line Tour of Savannah did its job.  It was a quick overall view of the city with a dash of information on Hilton Head Island.

Savannah and Philadelphia (according to the guide) are the only cities in the US laid out to plans conceived before their planners arrived in this country.  Savannah’s plan came from London, a scheme to rebuild it.

When I lived in Irvine Park in St.Paul, it was much like the older squares in Savannah.  It had Federalist architecture as well as later 19th century styles.  In fact, Savannah reminded me of St. Paul, especially Summit Avenue and Irvine Park.

The strange part, though, was the weather.  Yesterday Savannah had the lowest maximum temperature (66) of any year since 1875!  It has been rainy and chilly since I got here.  The tour itself lost something of its Southern ambiance with the chill.

I did see the house where the murder (or misfortune, as the people in the house now call it) occurred that prompted the book and the movie, Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil.

Tours rarely attract me, but I wanted a quick look at Savannah to see if I might want to spend more time there. I’m not sure.  Period houses lose their appeal for me pretty quickly.  Maybe if it warms up.

Kate and I had a low country buffet with her pediatric colleagues tonight.

Green Stars and Irish Wolfhounds

Beltane     Waning Flower Moon

Another gray morning, but the temperatures will head up today.  Low 70’s by this afternoon and high 70’s tomorrow.  That will change the look and feel of Hilton Head Island.  A lot. Sunshine, of which we have had none since I got here on Sunday morning, will also alter the appearance of the gray Atlantic.

Kate and I had supper last night charlie’s etoile verte.  The setting was French provincial and the food lived up to the French gastronomic standards.

We talked again over dinner about Irish Wolfhounds.  They present us with a delicate dilemma.  We loved them, each one of them, with an intensity that made them members of our family.  I don’t know how to describe the difference between our feelings for them and for the whippets, whom we also love, but the difference is qualitative.  Each of their deaths felt and feels like a family member died.

These big dogs occupy a space in our lives commensurate with their size.  We have had 8.  Their short life span, often as little as 5 years and in a couple of instances even less than that, makes loving them an exercise in sweet torture.

We would love to have more Wolfhounds, but I can’t imagine another Wolfhound death.  Too, the size of the Wolfhounds, Tor weighed 200 pounds, creates a problem.  Moving them when they are sick is difficult.  As we age, it becomes more and more difficult.  So, at least for now, we have decided against any more of these animals we love.  A hard place.

A Lazy Morning. Kindle.

Beltane        Waning Flower Moon

A breakfast buffet and finishing a novel.  That’s all I’ve done this a.m.

The gray line folks have a six hour tour of Savannah.  I booked it for tomorrow.  I find grayline a good way to get a quick overview of an area.  After that I can explore more what I find interesting.

The gothic side of the south has always appealed to me, as if it contains the nation’s shadow–which it may.  The part of me that delights in horror and dark fantasy gets revved up in Alabama, Georgia, South Carolina and Mississipi, Louisiana, too.

This trip promises to be fruitful from a creative perspective.  I’m doing what I can to expose myself to as much of it as I can.\

The Kindle, Amazon’s electronic book.

Yep.  I bought one.  You would not believe how much it lightened my baggage.  I have 12 books loaded on it right now and have finished two already.  It has already become my most appreciated possession.

When I finish one book, I just move the cursor up the menu and click on the next one.  Like having a portable library right along with you.  Plus, books are cheaper in electronic form.  About half what they are in printed form.  That means a reading junkie like me will easily save back the cost of the device.

Still rainy and chilly here.  Good for atmosphere.

Gray and 60 degrees

Beltane               Waning Flower Moon

Westin, Port Royal Plantation, Hilton Head Island, South Carolina

First night in a non-moving bed since Friday.  Slept fine.  It is gray and 60 degrees here this morning.  The Atlantic broods nearby, gray and pondering the upcoming hurrican season which begins on June 1, just as I arrive back home in the center of the continent.

Headed downstairs to the California Cafe for breakfast.

Hilton Head Island

Beltane        Waning  Flower Moon

The Silver Meteor delivered me to Savannah, Georgia at 6:30 a.m. this morning.  The train station was not, as I had imagined, in downtown Savannah but well out of town, about 20 miles from the airport where I had to pick up my rental car.

Lester, the sleeping car attendant, woke me at 6:15.  I wake up slowly so I had not yet begun to take in the whole world and there I was in the humid Savannah morning.  Kudzu vines enveloped trees, creating a tree-shaped outline made of the vine.  Spanish moss hangs from trees and there are low places and swamps dotted throughout.

The drive to Hilton Head takes about an hour and I surprised myself by driving straight to the Westin.  A navigational highlight of the day followed by many wrong turns later on this oddly organized island.

Instead of municipal governments the Island has plantations.  The Westin, for example, is in Port Royal Plantation on the heel of the Island.  When Kate and I took off for lunch at Crazy Crab, we had to go to Sea Pine Plantation on the other end of the ocean side of Hilton Head.  Sea Pines has a gate and charged us $5! to get in.  That explained the Crazy part.

After proving several times that finding the Westin was a fluke, we made it back where I took a long nap and Kate went to get educated.

The  Atlantic,at least today, is gray and has a forbidding aura, quite different from the placid Pacific I know better from Hawai’i.

Kate and I walked the beach and while.  We came upon a beached jelly fish.  It felt like jelly when I poked it with my finger.  The lifeguard said they were cannonball jellies or jelly balls.  They don’t sting.

I learned about sea oats and the protective nature of the dunes on which they grow.  The dunes are not play areas and their vegetation has legal protection since they hold they dunes together and the dunes buffer the insistent work of the waves.

The Westin serves a grits and gravy dish with flash seared shrimp that made me happy.  Low country cooking is tasty.

This whole area, the low country, gets its name from the era of the plantations.  Early on white settlers discovered malaria made growing the indigo and rice crops impossible them.  Thanks to the sickle cell trait, however, many Africans have total or some immunity.

Hurray!  During the growing season white plantation owners would retreat to the highlands of South Carolina and leave the plantation in the care of their slaves.  The slaves worked the land, brought in the crop and got crummy accommodations, no wages and oppression as thanks.

It is more than a little peculiar that this Island organizes itself around the notion of plantations.  I find it distasteful.

Over and out from the Atlantic Coast.

Last Stop of the Capitol Limited

May 16, 2009 Beltane Waning Flower Moon

The Capitol Limited Somewhere outside Cumberland, Maryland

9:30 a.m. EST

Slept last night very well. Early to bed around 10p.m. Tired from early rising and a full day of travel. The train rocked me to sleep as lightning flashed across the northern sky. I went to bed in Elkhart, Indiana and woke up in Pittsburgh.

In a tunnel right now. I’m not sure if this is the one but somewhere along here the ends of the tunnel are in W. Va. and the tunnel itself in Maryland. I have no idea.

Took a shower on the train. It was an ordinary enough shower except it moved like an LA bathroom in a mild tremor. There’s a small area with a seat, two hooks for clothing and a mirror, then a shower stall with non-skid plastic. I took my sandals with me, but habit took over and I was in the shower in my bare feet before I remembered them.

I ate breakfast this morning with a couple from Idaho who have a small hotel near Jhallus, Idaho, the Holiday Lodge. They were nice folks. May go visit since I’ve never been to Idaho.

I’m writing this in my roomette as we travel slowly through the Appalachian range. \I believe we passed through the Cumberland Gap about 15 minutes ago. A lot of history on this route. After a stop in Cumberland, Maryland we head for Harper’s Ferry. Two stops after that and we’re in D.C.

The layover in Washington will be 4+ hours. I plan to have a walk around with the camera, then back to Union Station. No museum on the way down. On the way back I’ll have 6 hours and I’ll hit the Freer and the Phillips.

5:30 p.m.   First Class Lounge, Union Station, Washington,DC

We got in a little late, but no worries since my train, #97, the Silver Meteor, does not leave until 7:30 p.m.  I’m not sure, but since this is a southbound train starting in Boston, it might be an agist pun.  If not, it oughta be.

Louisiana Avenue runs at a diagonal away from Union Station toward the National Mall.  I walked in the heat, keeping to the shade of trees and buildings, taking the occasional shot of the Capitol building and angling toward the National Gallery of Art.  Along the way I began noticing what is very old news to inside the beltway folks, but struck me with force.  Every Federal building has barriers to car and truck bombers.  I took some photos and when I get home I’ll add them back into this post.

They struck me because their defensiveness could not be more apparent.  They seem look like Lilliputian threads tieing down the outsized force of Uncle Sam.

On the way into Washington we stopped at Harper’s Ferry; John Brown’s body is still a’moltin’ in the grave. (what is molting anyway?)  I got to thinking about approaching D.C.  It would be the same as approaching, in different eras:  London, Rome, Istanbul, Baghdad, Xian, Beijing, Mexico City in the time of the Aztecs. No matter how the US goes down in the annals of future centuries it will still be a colossus that strode, for awhile, as the world’s hegemon.  Its capitol, where I write this, may provide future history channel specials:  Washington in the Time of the  Presidents!

Those of us who live in the Midwest come to the Capitol as country folks, far away from the deal making and policy wonking that creates buzz here in D.C.  We might have a few clods of earth stuck to our shoes, perhaps a straw struck in our mouths.  At least I hope we do, not because we lack intellectual or cultural sophistication, but because agriculture and care of the land is our heritage and if we do not come to power as our true selves who can replace us?

I’m gonna stow my bags again and wander around in the Station for a bit.  Talk to you later.

The Empire Builder

Beltane                         Waning Flower Moon    9a.m.

Made it to the station at 7:30 a.m. this morning. Kate pulled away in the tundra while I checked my bag through to Savannah. The ticket agent put SAV on my bag and stapled a tag with SAV onto my ticket. I asked about a roomette to Chicago, $196, I said no thank you.

After 5 minutes of waiting, the conductor called Chicago. I went to the small makeshift wooden cart, Amtrak blue, handed my multi-ticket folder to a man with a real conductor’s hat. He looked at it and said,. “Chi.” The man next to him in a red vest handed me a peach colored piece of paper about 2 inches wide and 8 inches long. On it in block letters is CHI.

“Second car to your left,” he said and pointed out toward the platform.

There was a man in all blue standing beside an open door on a train with several cars. “Put the chit over your seat, please. This is very important. Up the steps to your left and take a seat up above.”

I found a seat, dutifully put my CHI above a window seat on the east side of the train and sat down. I knew from the past that this would put the Mississippi River outside my window.

Until the train started I read World Without End on my Kindle 2. After we began the slow roll away from the station,.I put the Kindle away to enjoy the trip through St. Paul from an unusual perspective. We rolled past the new High Bridge, then passed under the bluffs on Irvine Park, my old home.

The call to breakfast came as we left St. Paul. I shared breakfast with a gap toothed retired farmer from Alberta who kept alerting me to the fact that we don’t know what hardship really is. Our other table mates joined us in a round of why we don’t like to fly anymore and why we were all so wise as to choose the train. The food was good and the menu had all the items available, unusual in my recent experience, but welcome.

Since breakfast I have sat here in my window seat watching the unglaciated Mississippi River valley, its limestone cliffs and wide waters a visual treat. I look forward to this part of the trip each time.

4:15 p.m. Metropolitan lounge Chicago Union Station

Got in early. I discovered the first class lounges when I went to NYC a year and a half ago. This lounge has wi-fi, great cell phone reception, drinks, temporary bag storage, plug-ins, free drinks and comfortable chairs scattered around a pleasant room.  It has dark wood railings on the walls, dark wood pillars, subdued but adequate lighting and comfortable chairs and couches.

When I checked in, the woman behind the desk took my reservation for dinner on the D.C. train.   It leaves at 6:50. The lounge provides a porter and a guide to the train.  All these services reduce the hassle of lay-overs and make the experience more enjoyable.

After I checked my bag, I went upstairs and out into a chill, wet Chicago Friday.  People hurried past on the sidewalk, umbrellas tilted against the slant of the incoming rain.   The rain fell on my bald head and ran down my neck.  It felt great after 6+ hours on the train.

The next two segments of the trip, Chicago to D.C. and D.C. to Savannah, I have a roomette.  I prefer the privacy and the opportunity to spread out.

Hive 2 In Place

Beltane                     Waning Flower Moon

Mark came over and we suited up.  The bees have been busy.  I saw the small larvae curled up in the very bottom of a comb’s cell, several of them.  We investigated each frame, finding one frame with many capped cells, maybe 60%.  The bees did not seem interested in us.  We only used the smoke once and that was as we removed a frame with a large number of bees working on it.

Mark said it was a little early, but we decided to put hive 2 in place, moving up into it one of the frames with brood and spreading the others out a bit on the bottom since it left only 9 frames below out of 10.  Much of this management of the hive involves swarming.  If the bees feel their space has become  too cramped, some of the hive, maybe all, will fly away into a tree, then send out scouts for a more roomy place.  This means less to no honey at the end of the season.

After this next phase, we will switch the top one onto the bottom and put the bottom on it.  The third and last hive goes on top of both of them.  After this last swap, the supers go on.

Lydia came over from next door.  She’s going to do some weeding and some heavier work like taking out yew that died over the winter.  Much of her initial weeding will happen over the week we’re gone.  It will be good to have some help.  Weeding becomes a chore around this time of year.

Finishing Up

Beltane                Waning Flower Moon

Last day at home.  Got up and put the snowblower in the truck.  Then I roughed up the area around the fruit trees and sowed clover seed where I had killed the quack ten days ago.  Planted the remaining hydroponic plants, five cucumbers.  They went in along a drip line.  They will get a trellis this year.

When the cucumbers were tucked in with a bit of composted manure per each, I hopped in the truck and took the snowblower over to Beisswinger’s Hardware. “I thought we were done with snowblowers,” the guy behind the service counter said.  “I like to get mine done in the spring, then it’s ready for the winter and I don’t have to compete with other folks who’ve just decided to do it.

Mark Nordeen plans to stop by around noon.  I imagine we’ll add a second hive.  Then, one more later.  After that, the supers go on and honey production can start in earnest.

Well, off to the library to return some books.  Then, packing.

Ancientrails Rides The Rails

Beltane                     Waning Flower Moon

Ancientrails will hit the road on Friday.  I’m not sure about wireless connections while I’m on the train, though I’m guessing they exist in the First Class lounges where I’ll wait between trains.  At any rate, I may be down for a day or two, but I’ll start posting for sure in Hilton Head on Sunday.

It’s strange, doing so much earth connected work: planting, moving daylilies, tending bees then getting on a train and riding away from it all for 18 days.   Travel during the growing season has definite windows and I’m just touching one, the average day of the last frost in our area, May 15th.  That’s this Friday.  That means I’ve planted a tiny bit ahead of the average date, but the overall weather pattern looked favorable.

I do have other planting that needs to get done, but I can’t do it until our number of available beds increases with the work of Ecological Gardens that can not happen until May 26th and May 27th.  I’ll be back shortly after that, so I’m not missing much.

We’re hiring some neighborhood help with weeding.  That’s the primary challenge while we’re gone, not letting the weeds get ahead of the vegetables.

Travel is a part of my Self, a way I work on who I am and what I mean.  It’s been that way for so long that I can’t recall which came first, travel or working on who I am.  It may be that the journey toward Selfhood never ends, or it may end with definite suddenness at death, but in either case it lasts a lifetime at least.  We need all the tools available to us.